January 20, 2022

"Given to drama in his personal style (he favored capes, gloves and regal headpieces), his pronouncements ('My eyes are starving for beauty') and the work he adored, he cultivated an air of hauteur...."

"Mr. Talley was a fixture at the Abyssinian Baptist Church in Harlem, where, according to the church’s pastor, the Rev. Dr. Calvin O. Butts III.... Mr. Talley, who was openly gay, lived alone and had little semblance of a romantic life... It was through [Vogue editor Diana] Vreeland... that he entered the magazine world, and... met [Andy] Warhol. 'He was constantly trying to grab my crotch,' Mr. Talley later told The New York Times. 'It was not a Harvey Weinstein moment. Andy was a charming person because he saw the world through the kaleidoscope of a child. Everything was 'gee golly wow."'... For [Talley], fashion was both inspiration and disguise, camouflage against the racist barbs he experienced, such as being referred to as 'Queen Kong.'... There were 'many in that industry who really did love André for his talent,' Mr. Butts said. It was also the case, he added, that 'there were others who exploited his talent and used it to their advantage,' who 'never really gave him respect as a man and were condescending.'"

From "André Leon Talley, Editor and Fashion Industry Force, Dies at 73/Called 'a creative genius,' he was the rare Black editor at the top of a field that was mostly white and notoriously elitist" (NYT).

13 comments:

jaydub said...

"'He was constantly trying to grab my crotch,' Mr. Talley later told The New York Times. 'It was not a Harvey Weinstein moment. Andy was a charming person because he saw the world through the kaleidoscope of a child. Everything was 'gee golly wow."'

Ah, the birth of "the Warhol defense" for sexual assault! Or does it only work for gay celebrities?

Lucien said...

But we’re they polka dot capes?

Jaq said...

When you're a star!

rhhardin said...

You have to be so careful with polka dots (men's fashion statement).

Ice Nine said...

Apparently, the wearing of sleeping bags, bedspreads, and old curtains is high fashion.

Rollo said...

For [Talley], fashion was both inspiration and disguise, camouflage against the racist barbs he experienced, such as being referred to as 'Queen Kong.'

What's an insult in one context can be an "in your face" fierce assertion of pride. It's not always easy to be sure.

Maybe I wouldn't like to work with him, but from a distance I kind of liked him. He was certainly entertaining. Was I supposed to take his race and sexuality into account? And in what way? That's also hard to be sure about.

Tom T. said...

I've seen interviews where he talked about being lonely. For a man of that generation to grow up gay and black must have been really isolating.

Fernandinande said...

racist blah blah Queen Kong

Because he looked like someone from Hong Kong?

Joe Smith said...

I love the term 'openly gay.'

Nobody cares.

Earnest Prole said...

Run, don’t walk, to see the 2009 Vogue documentary The September Issue, where the real-life characters (Talley, Anna Wintour, Grace Coddington) are stranger and more wonderful than fiction.

Bill Peschel said...

There's also a wonderful documentary about Talley ("The Gospel According to ...") that discusses upbringing in Durham, N.C., a tobacco town that's also the home of Duke U., his move to New York, and his journalism.

You get the impression that his personal life was lonely, but he was surrounded by everything that mattered to him. New York City, Paris, Milan, fashion. It seems like he was the true soul of Vogue, helping to shape the fashions and therefore the culture.

BTW, I was looking up "The Chiffon Trenches" on Amazon and found an in-depth 4-star review that calls out Talley for believing that everything bad that happened to him was a result of racism, not his binge eating, not his refusal to adjust his photo shoots to the needs of his editor (and boss), and ignoring the 50 years of being befriended by the rich and famous, and appreciated for his knowledge and talent.

(PS: Earnest Prole is right. "The September Issue" is an amazing doc.)

Howard said...

Andy Warhol made NTC into his own twisted Mr. Rogers Neighborhood. Pittsburgh... who knew

PM said...
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