September 2, 2026

"In the mid-eighteen-hundreds, amid the advent of photography, the Victorians shot still-life arrangements of lizards crawling over fruit and dead game birds hanging from a nail..."

"... capturing with their new technology the savagery of hunger, the oneness between natural decay and human appetite. For much of the following century, food photography functioned as a sort of ethnographic art, a form of restrained realism preoccupied with light and shadow, shape and symbolism. But, in the nineteen-thirties, the introduction of color printing to advertising changed how food was shot on camera, and thus conceived of culturally. Dishes were now a thing to be drooled over and sold, products that emphasized the sensual, the luscious, the beautiful.... The surreality of commercial food photography and its later evolution into food porn may have been an artificial and sensationalist representation of the things we ate, but it at least managed to seduce.... Restaurants choosing to showcase computer-generated approximations of the dishes they serve inspire neither gluttony nor lust...."

No 19th century photographs at that link, so I found 2 for you: "The First of September" (1855)(showing 2 dead game birds hanging from a nail) and  William Louis Henry Skeen, "Still Life of Exotic Fruits & Lizard from Ceylon" (c. 1880)(with, of course, lizards crawling over fruit).

Those 2 old photographs are not as exciting as I'd leapt to imagine they were. I should have noticed the promise of dreariness in those words "ethnographic art" and "restrained realism."

My imagination was fueled with images of old still-life paintings like this:

16 comments:

RCOCEAN II said...

1625 painting. Amazing colors.

ron winkleheimer said...

My guess, without reading the article, is that we find AI images of food unsetteling for the same reason we find bad AI images of humans unsetteling, the uncanny valley.

tcrosse said...

For my sins, I worked many years at a large food company. One of my workmates was a food stylist, whose job was to tart up food for the camera. Marshall McLuhan supposedly said that color photography has done more for food than eating has.

ron winkleheimer said...

As for the painting, people in the 1600s had not been conditioned to think that meat comes neatly butchered and packaged from the supermarket.

Temujin said...

Well...the industrial revolution + capitalism increased our ability to produce things, including food. So...more food was becoming available to more people than ever before. And over time, food imagery went from a painting of something only the very wealthy could conceive of, to something many families had, and more families would desire.
The imagery of how food was and is depicted reflects the current society at large.
Years ago when I was in the restaurant biz, we would hire photographers with specific backgrounds in shooting food, to create images for our restaurant ads. Or when we were reviewed, the newspaper would send over their food photographer to take the accompanying shot. Often they'd have a spray bottle of glycerin to spray over the plate of food, to give it that shiny 'alive' look. It did take a certain skill in lighting and texture to be a good food photographer.
Now with ai, food photographers will still be used, but they are not necessary. You can do it yourself. Photographers will need to do more creative things with food to get attention. Yikes.

Aggie said...

Isn't there a Scottish dish that involves hanging up the game birds until they rot?

rehajm said...

I’ve always assumed it was a practical decision of early photographers- capturing what was on the other end of the table. Exposures were long and short focals so no sports photography or even portraits….and nobody had discovered infinite focal lengths so no landscape photography yet

Lazarus said...

So now someone has a juicy thesis on lizards in art. There's probably a connection to imperialism. Italians, though, had their own lizards in the South, and that may account for lizard paintings by Leonardo and Caravaggio. Lizard art goes nuclear in 1950s Japan.

Lazarus said...

In 10 years (or 10 months or 10 weeks) you won't be able to tell AI pictures from "real" ones, so get those indignant articles in now while you still can.

rhhardin said...

1800's Donald Duck

brad said...

The Kimbell Art museum opens a 200 year exhibition from French collection.... https://kimbellart.org/event/members-only-previews-13?date=2026-10-02T12:00:00

mindnumbrobot said...

Good photography has always been notoriously difficult, and by good I mean professional, high-quality photography (i.e. expensive). Critical lighting and tricks of the trade were needed. Anybody can take a picture of food, but how many times have you looked at your picture and thought, "it looks much better in person?"

AI is an inexpensive tool that restauranteurs can now use in an attempt to replicate that difficult to capture character and feel of old school photography. And like any tool, it's only as good as the craftsman using it.

mindnumbrobot said...

*Good food photography...

Ann Althouse said...

"My guess, without reading the article, is that we find AI images of food unsetteling for the same reason we find bad AI images of humans unsetteling, the uncanny valley."

Oddly, the article never mentions the "uncanny valley" effect.

Ann Althouse said...

"Anybody can take a picture of food, but how many times have you looked at your picture and thought, "it looks much better in person?""

Friends and family on Facebook are always putting up photos of their food and I get the feeling they imagine us thinking "Wow, luck you, looks yummy, I'm jealous," but it's just a dreary blob.

I absolutely loathe influencer videos where they make a show of inserting something in their mouth and groaning with pleasure.

bagoh20 said...

When I was kid, my Dad would bring home pheasant and rabbits shot just outside my grandmothers home in the woods. The women folk would clean them before cooking, and always thought that was way too much work when you could just buy food down the road. I had a gun since I was 12 years old and was free to go walking the woods with it anytime I wanted unsupervised, which was a wonderful childhood, but I was a lousy hunter, because although I would get excited about hunting and shooting things, I always regretted killing after it was done. Because of this, in my few years of deer hunting, I never shot one.

Post a Comment

Please use the comments forum to respond to the post. Don't fight with each other. Be substantive... or interesting... or funny. Comments should go up immediately... unless you're commenting on a post older than 4 days. Then you have to wait for us to moderate you through. It's also possible to get shunted into spam by the machine. We try to keep an eye on that and release the miscaught good stuff. We do delete some comments, but not for viewpoint... for bad faith. Also: No italics, even briefly. Use asterisks for emphasis. And don't play with the format by changing fonts or using boldface or all caps. Never include more than one extra line break between paragraphs.