November 9, 2025

"Capes that flowed into skirts, coats on top of denim jackets and socks worn over tights.... layers were bright sweaters or cozy scarves... many people were covered up [or] wearing shorts, high-slit skirts or other layers...."

In case you want to feel as though it will be perfectly fashionable to throw on as many oversized comfortable layers of whatever you happen to find in your closet, look at the photographs at "Layers Upon Layers of Lively Fall Fashion/Capes that flowed into skirts, coats on top of denim jackets, socks over tights — and don’t forget scarves and sweaters" (NYT)(free-access link).

The article is by Simbarashe Cha, who works in the tradition of the much-missed Bill Cunningham. Scanning the photographs, I get the feeling he was working on sets that didn't pan out. One unrealized set is "twins" (2 individuals out and about while dressed somewhat like each other). Another is the double breasted jacket. Those pictures are tucked into fashion's biggest catch-all: layers.

I was reminded of the famous advice attributed to Coco Chanel: "Before you leave the house, look in the mirror and take one thing off." That NYT piece makes me think that the current advice is: "Before you leave the house, put 2 more things on, and don't even think of looking in a mirror."

By the way, how can you tell if a woman is wearing socks over tights? She might be wearing leggings that stop at the ankle and socks over what otherwise would be bare feet. 

33 comments:

john mosby said...

Prof: "One unrealized set is "twins" (2 individuals out and about while dressed somewhat like each other)."

In the aughts here in DC, gay twins were a thing. Gay couples would already be roughly the same height and body type - because gay men are men, and men are full of ourselves, so we're our own standard of attractiveness. And then they would dress in roughly the same kind of clothes - not completely matchy-matchy, but, say, both in jeans and polos. And of course they'd have the same haircut. And often they'd have a matched pair of dogs (RIP the rare clumbers).

I think maybe it was a way to support gay marriage, since that controversy was going on back then. Seems to not be a thing any more. CC, JSM

R C Belaire said...

Need to dust off the old overcoat it seems.

Leland said...

It is nice to know I can wear loose fitting oversized clothes and make it into NYT fashion. I can even have my hair done, wear a black t-shirt and camo pants with dress sandals and no socks, yet get panned for wearing a nice long coat that is a few shades darker than the dog I'm walking.

If you can wear pants as white as snow, and they still look white as snow; then no one should complain about you wearing pants as white as snow. And if you can pull it off with denim white pants that goes unnoticed next to baggy acid washed denim; even better.

Derve said...

Is this a sign it's going to be a cold winter?
One thing I learned in Intro to Sociology: rich people wear layers, poor people do not. Aha! That is why women's clothes are made of thinner cheaper material than mens... Women are supposed to layer. duh.

(Prof, after the age of about 12, you learn to dress yourself for whatever conditions you're facing. Don't be a slave to fashion, and nevermind reading about what you're missing in TheBigCity... you're not missing anything. Remember when the city folk, and meade too?, discovered Carhartt?)

Derve said...

Try Foxblood? Lindsay Hearts is a great designer and the clothes keep you warm while looking... goth/black/skinnier? Fun designs.

rehajm said...

Yah my Burberry buried in the storage unit somewhere…

rehajm said...

It looks a bit like they’re all on their way to JFK to foil the airlines carry on bag policies…That wan with the black cape and silver buttons looks great. I see a huge rock is still in style..

rehajm said...

…so so asian. When did New York become Cambridge?

CT Ginger said...

There is nothing sillier or more ephemeral than fashion. They all look sloppy, a bit bedraggled and very much like they’re trying too hard.

rehajm said...

The potato sack denim gets to me. I’ll be glad when that’s so over. My wife will be happy to know her sheep lined denim jacket made the fashion page

rehajm said...

Did you see Annie Hall a thousand times? - Bloomingdale’s sales lady in Splash

Rocco said...

The article is by Simbarashe Cha, who works in the tradition of the much-missed Bill Cunningham.

I guess you can’t get 700WLW in Madison. But at 78 years old, he still does his radio show that he’s been doing for 4+ decades. I don’t know whether or not he still actively practices law, though.

Rocco said...

Except for a couple of exceptions, sprezzatura it is not.

Kevin said...

Now the wanna-be-hip recent arrivals to New York will need to buy even MORE clothes they can’t afford.

On the bright side, the homeless in Mandami’s New York are immediately on trend.

Aggie said...

A cute article. Dressing up is fun; dressing up every day must be exhausting. So glad I don't live in the city.

n.n said...

Judgment, labels and feminine gender fashions and Choices... uh, choices.

Howard said...

Didn't Madonna popularize rando consignment store fashion layerings back in the days of Desperately Seeking Susan?

Bell bottoms are popular with the young people these days as well.

Howard said...

Yeah that's right, Madonna was just copying Diane Keaton and Annie Hall while adding a salvation Army twist to it.

Bob Boyd said...

That one girl is cute, but looks like a UPS driver.

Mad Anthony Wayne said...

My first thought on reading the article was that Bill Cunningham is not dead, since Willie is on 700 WLW from noon to three on weekdays. Then I realized you were referring to another Bill Cunningham.

NKP said...

It looks a bit like they're all on the way to JFK to foil the airlines carry on bag policies...

The key to packing light is to just wear most of what you need. The planes tend to be a little chilly, anyway.

Rocco said...

Mad Anthony Wayne said...
"My first thought on reading the article was that Bill Cunningham is not dead, since Willie is on 700 WLW from noon to three on weekdays. Then I realized you were referring to another Bill Cunningham."

You are a Great American, sir.

Rocco said...

The first photo of the woman wearing a long slit skirt with the slit almost all the way up the thigh sets a trend: Women showing some leg are wearing an outfit that does not flatter their legs as well as it should.

Rocco said...

The second photo of the old guy with the trench coat that is too snug reminds me of The Executive trench coat from Seinfeld.

Rocco said...

Most of the photos remind me of '90s high schoolers who school suddenly dropped the dress code and they're not quite sure what to wear.

Rocco said...

I did like the outfit of the guy in the 3-piece suit, red scarf, and either a bowler (probably) or homburg hat.

rehajm said...

Did you spot the birkin?

PigHelmet said...

“Don’t forget scarves and sweaters” feels like one of those stray imperative phrases from advertising that seem to crop up in modernist novels, like “Measure your head before ordering” from the Sears Roebuck catalog in Don DeLillo’s MAO II. I will probably start saying it to myself and others apropos of nothing.

john mosby said...

NKP: "The key to packing light is to just wear most of what you need. The planes tend to be a little chilly, anyway."

And then there's the Stefon Method: Human Luggage is when you have a midget wear all your clothes, and then pull him behind you on a skateboard....CC, JSM

Leora said...

Looks very 70's to my eyes.

Rabel said...

The comb-over attempt by the guy in brown is sad.

Rosalyn C. said...

I was deeply reassured by seeing these photos, knowing that even though young people allegedly can't afford rent and food they can still manage to look stylish and good. I don't know if those fashionable kids are from affluent families like Mamdani, maybe. They probably supported him and they look proud and happy about their meaningless lives, in contrast to what Tim Dillon told us about young NY'ers. 18-34 was Mamdani's leading demographic. (Zohran Mamdani received strong support from younger voters, particularly those under 30, with about 78% of this demographic voting for him. He also garnered significant backing from newcomers to New York City and diverse racial groups, including Black and Asian voters, while older voters tended to favor his opponent, Andrew Cuomo.) Search Assist
*The ethnic set are not over educated brunchers.

Bunkypotatohead said...

Are there any Americans in New York?

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