January 22, 2025

"I tend to think the search for authenticity in a new country is rooted in a desire for something we find missing at home."

"To live almost anywhere in the United States is to be surrounded by brand names. The supposedly authentic foreign experience is perhaps a sense of life untainted by the influence of global brands. Traveling abroad, we may find it only natural to dismiss anything else as less than the 'real' version of whichever country we’re visiting. Yet brands like KFC or McDonald’s are just as ingrained in the fabric of everyday life in Dublin, Paris or Tokyo as a given pub, bistro or noodle shop.... Fast food is indigenous to a world made by capitalism, you could say.... But step inside. Order something. Try speaking with the customers. You might even leave with a better understanding of how they live, what they struggle with and what they hope for themselves. In other words, by going to the most generic restaurant, you can learn what makes a place unique."

Writes Alex C. Park, in "Want an Authentic Travel Experience? Try McDonald’s. It’s a much realer version of the supposed authenticity we so often seek" (NYT).

45 comments:

Skeptical Voter said...

First overseas McDonalds I ever saw was in Amsterdam 1976. But they are everywhere now.

Larry J said...

Back in 2010, my wife and I were on a bus in Australia. Our bus driver said, "Any now, on both sides of the road, you'll find the American embassy". They were McDonald's restaurants. We got a good laugh out of it. As for eating at a McDonald's, whether at home or when traveling, the only time we do so is when there are limited options and little time to find better alternatives.

RideSpaceMountain said...

Japan. Visit US fast-food chain restaurants in Japan. The quality of the product and the service is like night and day. Those workers deserve $15/hour (2400¥/hr). You'll never look at McDonalds or KFC in any US location the same way again. Outside of Chik-Fil-A, you'll essentially feel like you're being ripped off hitting other chains in the US after experiencing them in Japan.

Disparity of Cult said...

NYT and its readers will never quit the "Gorillas in the Mist" fetish.

Tarrou said...

Go into any small-town McDonalds at six in the morning and sit near the old guys. You'll hear about America.

RideSpaceMountain said...

There's some non-US chains that are absolutely killing it and worth a try if you ever see them: Jollibee, Giraffas, Koni, Din Tai Fung, Nando's. Highly recommend Koni and Din Tai Fung, and I always hit them up when I'm in the region.

Readering said...

Hard to get a bad meal in Japan.

The Cracker Emcee Refulgent said...

Our small-town McDonalds closed the lobby/dining area to keep the tweakers/homeless out. So, yes, an authentic dining experience in Joe Biden's America.

Readering said...

Come to American Southwest for Din Tai Fung.

Michael said...

Total ripoff of Chris Arande's work this past decade. Travels the world and always spends time in McDonald's at every stop.

Read his book "Dignity"
https://www.amazon.com/Dignity-Seeking-Respect-Back-America/dp/0525534733

Readering said...

Was just in Spain. Golden Arches abounded but not about to waste a meal in Spain there.

rhhardin said...

It's pretty authentic to eat at home.

Lem Vibe Bandit said...

YouTube: Royale with cheese

David53 said...

KFC in New Zealand is way better than in the states.

Eva Marie said...

I always visit McDonalds when I’m traveling. I like to see how the menu differs from country to country and sometimes from state to state. It’s also interesting to see what the locals order. As far as service is concerned, I’d put my local crew against any other McDonalds in the world. They are fantastic.

RideSpaceMountain said...

The question ought to be why it's so hard to get a good one here. Even in Switzerland where they're paid twice as much as in the US the experience is vastly superior. What are we paying $15/hour for?

I see Burgermatic-5000's in American burger-flipper's futures.

Enigma said...

And this is how the novelty (and key purpose) of international leisure travel has declined. Every place has the same cars, same restaurants, same hotels, same brands, etc. There is little challenge and there is nothing to learn other than people are the same and fall for the same commercial marketing methods everywhere.

There used to be a McDonalds in the prime central location of Milan, Italy's famous Galleria (covered shopping mall). They forceably moved it to the end of the mall because it was a McDonalds and replaced it with fashion clothing stores (I think Prada filled its space). Many Italian products are made by Chinese people living in Italy (to allow "Made in Italy" badging), and this led to the early COVID outbreak in 2020.

Smoke and mirrors everywhere.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galleria_Vittorio_Emanuele_II

David53 said...

Japan McDonalds in the 80s was a trip.
Pizza Hut or Shakeys, I can’t remember which one but squid and pineapple pizza was a no go for me.

Hal Duston said...

I remember listening 30 years ago to a segment on NPR about a young man from Kenya who was coming to the United States to pursue a graduate degree. He was greatly relieved to discover that KFC had locations in the United States.

NorthOfTheOneOhOne said...

Can concur on Din Tai Fung, their food is fantastic!

Ice Nine said...

I've traveled all my life and have been in over half the countries in the world. Eating the local food is lots of fun - my rule is that I will take at least one bite of anything that is considered human food by the locals (tarantulas in Phnom Penh, for instance...) I also love McDonald's and I eat at Macs in a lot of them - you get tired of the local food after awhile.

But in spite of that, one of my guiding goals in my travels over the years has been to get to a particular country before McDonald's does. I've done that pretty successfully, though it's near impossible now. It's taken me to many strange places.

tim maguire said...

I may tell myself I'm looking for authenticity, but what I'm really looking for is a different way of life. The city I'm visiting has all sorts of things my city has--and those are the things I'm not interested in seeing.

Aggie said...

I've been told that year after year, one of the biggest-revenue franchises for KFC was in Port of Spain. And their chicken was exceptional, last time I had it.

Anthony said...

I've usually eaten local whenever abroad just to try new things. But every now and then I'd hit a McD's or something just to give myself a break from wondering if what I eat will be enjoyable or make me sick. (Especially in Egypt) Whenever someone online would get all hyper about how McD's is "invading" sacred places like France I would note that the one on the Champs-Élysées was packed when I was there and that no one was, in fact, forcing them in at gunpoint.

In Japan they eat KFC for Christmas dinner. I would totally do that here, if they were open. I love that as a weird (to our eyes) tradition.

Went to a McD's in Beijing several years ago. The Spousal Unit ordered a Happy Meal because it's the ideal size for her. The counter lady got all wide eyed and said in an astonished voice "But that is for children!"

baghdadbob said...

Travelled to Israel with a US business associate who keeps Kosher. He couldn't wait to get to an Israeli Burger King because they are Glatt. No mayo, by the way.

MadisonMan said...

Jollibee is AWESOME! Especially the Filipino Spaghetti with hot dogs. (I'M NOT KIDDING).

MadisonMan said...

I don't eat McDonald's in the states (Culvers forever!!!) and I'm not going to start overseas.

rehajm said...

They are describing how humanity benefits from transaction and trade, something different than the ugly/leftie American definition of capitalism. There must also be an ugly/leftie American of authentic tourism, or we share the same definition with the rest of humanity. Example- Reported by my fishing guide, Japanese tourists visit to Montana included cowboy hats and boots, one of the men stepping in some horse manure, prompting the rest to simultaneously exclaim 'VERY AUTHENTIC!'. Yes, I suppose it is...

Assistant Village Idiot said...

McDonald's was new but already beloved in Oradea, Romania when I first visited in 1998. The rest rooms were clean. The staff was polite. It was air-conditioned/heated. It served beer. The beef was beef. This was all quite remarkable to them there.

Amexpat said...

I just grabbed a hamburger today in Oslo on my way home. Don't do it often, but I wanted something quick and cheap. The quality and service is better than in the States. I sometimes get a sandwich at Subway here to get some veggies. I would never do that in the States as I'd be sceptical about the hygiene.

The biggest difference country to country I've seen is 7-11. In Japan there pretty good. The ones here have good sausages and don't sell slurpies and giant size soft drinks.

NKP said...

Lived in Japan 6+ years. Could live happily in Tokyo, the rest of my life. Don't recall eating a 'burger anywhere, there. Had a pizza at Shakey's a couple of times but came to prefer the pizza-like thing on the 3 a.m. menu at the long-ago Charleston Club on a 'back street' in Roppongi.

NKP said...

Ah, Switzerland! My Home-away-from-Home most Autumns for the last 39 years. I like to hike.

2008, I introduced my son and daughter and their fams' to Berner Oberland. First walk was something of a forced march from Grindelwald to Bort. I had intended First, but they were clearly spent so we settled-in on the large sunny deck of the Alpinhotel, to enjoy the views.

Cold drinks and snacks were ordered but my son-in-law lingered over the menu until the waiter asked if he'd made up his mind yet. Tommy looked up and said, "10 Francs for fries. Seriously?"
Without missing a beat, the waiter swept his arm around toward the Inn and asked. "Do you see any Golden Arches, anywhere?"

loudogblog said...

Boy, talk about being out of touch. The thing about McDonalds is that their core mission is to make every McDonalds like every other McDonalds. Granted, there are menu differences overseas, but it's still an Americanized version of a different culture. So you're not really experiencing the native culture if you hit a McDonalds when you travel to a foreign country.

Jupiter said...

So, Althouse. Question; Do you think it is possible that NYT is "salting" their output with articles designed specifically to get your attention? Is the abyss staring into you yet?

NKP said...

Some outfit (Economist Magazine?) used to compute the value of the US Dollar by listing the cost of a Big Mac in dozens of countries. Another such comparrison used Mars Bars, as I recall.

TML said...

cc: Chris Arnade

Narr said...

During our 1978 Eurail trip around central Europe, my wife and I ate at McD's a couple of times in the two months. We also ate at Wienerwald several times, and for the same reasons--convenience and familiarity.

Of course, almost all our breakfasts were at the hotel or pension where we were staying, and lunch was often just some bread, cheese, and fruit from a local market. Dinners were the big meal, and we generally selected nice looking small restaurants for those.

We haven't had to eat at McD's or KFC in any of our trips since.

tcrosse said...

For another data point: I found myself at loose ends on a Saturday evening in Paris, so I had a burger at the Five Guys on Rue des Capucines, just off the Place de l'Opera. The burger was OK, but the girl behind the counter was snotty in a particularly French way.

Aggie said...

Looking forward, actually, to seeing McDonald's return to its roots using beef tallow for the fries, which have never been the same since suspending its use.

Gilbert Pinfold said...

A college friend was married to the daughter of the CEO of McDonald's. We were asked to eat at McDonald's at least once if we could while traveling internationally, and report if anything seemed off. Did so gladly, and never had a bad meal (often better than in the US). The difference most noted was the salary men sleeping in McD's in Japan wearing their suits after missing the train home after the ritual bar crawl.

Hey Skipper said...

Correct, it was the Economist. They called it BMPPP — Big Mac Purchasing Power Parity.

Rusty said...

Some of the small towns I visit don't have a McDonalds. The don't even have a Dollar General.

NKP said...

Japanese are in the habit of "dressing the part." You see guys fishing in Japan, most are sporting the complete "Angler Outfit" right off the cover of Angler Magazine.

Gospace said...

Steak 'n Shake by the end of February, all locations, fries in tallow. Haven't yet been to one. One opened locally across the street from BJ's Brewhouse, with a varied menu, from which I usually get a burger. Which I can order rare, and send back for another if it doesn't come out that way. Yesterday's first attempt came out medium-well. They put a coating on the fries which adds taste and crispiness to them. No idea what it is. I asked the waiter what they cooked the fries in- canola oil, and he explained the coating was the key to their taste and texture.

Next month we'll make a visit to the Steak 'n Shake. It was built rather rapidly. As in, one week we dined at the Brewhouse, and there was nothing across the street, and the next week, the Steak 'n Shake was open for business.

Gospace said...

In my time in the Navy I ate locally at least once each port visit. And have the following advice, learned through experience- except for American chains, don't eat anything made from ground meat of any kind. Unless you enjoy gastro-intestinal upset and illness. Most any other meat concoction is safe. Whether it's any good or not is personal preference.

And medical advice from corpsmen everywhere- if you can't peel the fruit or vegetable- don't eat it. Korea had great looking plump ripe and red strawberries. Fertilized with human waste, both urine and solid. Not an uncommon practice in other places.

And the best French rolls I've ever had were from a bakery in Pusan. My buddy and I stopped in early morning and each got a roll with butter. Half a block away we decided to go back for another.