"... passing a local driving test, negotiating the culture, truckling to unbudgeable authority and now and then enduring the gibes of co-workers. I was conspicuous in Africa as a muzungu and as an ang-mo-kui (red-haired devil) in Singapore, and very often an English person would begin a sentence, 'Well, you Yanks….' There is also an existential, parasitical, rootless quality to being an expatriate, which can be dizzying: You are both somebody and nobody, often merely a spectator. I always felt in my bones that wherever I went, I was an alien. That I could not presume or expect much hospitality, that I had nothing to offer except a willingness to listen, that wherever I was, I had no business there and had to justify my intrusion by writing about what I heard. Most travel, and a lot of expatriate life, can be filed under the heading 'Trespassing.'..."
Writes Paul Theroux, in "The Hard Reality American Expats Quickly Learn" (NYT). And that's a free-access link, which I'm giving you because I love Theroux's book "The Mosquito Coast," and the book is connected to the topic under discussion, as he explains. Also there's a great Mark Twain quote and a pretty decent JFK quote. So, please read the whole thing.
January 7, 2025
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"The true test of an expatriate is holding down a job, learning a language, paying taxes, passing a local driving test, negotiating the culture, truckling to unbudgeable authority and now and then enduring the gibes of co-workers."
After marrying a foreigner, travelling much of the world, and lived in several countries I have found the following:
Natives hold down a job - LOL
Native fluency - Is it bad if you speak their language better than they do?
Natives pay their taxes - Hahahahahaha
Local driving test - What's a driving test? Also, what's this "driver's license" you speak of?
Negotiating native culture - The native culture is about screwing everyone around them, so...
Unbudgeable authority - Unbudgeable until you start negotiating the price
Gibes of co-workers - No one is going to gibe you, after all you're the only one working hard
Top all that off by having sincere conversations with locals about how to get the hell out of their native land and into the USA and you've passed your true expat test.
Islands and traditional cultures such as Japan or Ireland tend to be monocultures and frankly xenophobic. They may greet foreigners with ignorant curiousity but will never, ever accept them into the tribe. In contrast, all sorts of US citizens get hot and bothered by a "sexy" UK English accent -- it's a big advantage IMO. The root explanation is that immigration rather than tradition or emigration has driven US culture.
Many USA DEI advocates would be shocked to discover that their home country is far superior to most other places in terms of actual tolerance.
Since my move was to Canada, much of his experience doesn't apply to my situation, but for me the biggest hurdle (which he doesn't mention) is how little my US credentials mattered when I got here.
My decades of good credit meant nothing to Canadian banks, my work experience meant nothing to most potential employers (despite crisis-level shortages of doctors and nurses, there are thousands of them driving an Uber or stocking shelves in stores).
I could not presume or expect much hospitality, that I had nothing to offer except a willingness to listen, that wherever I was, I had no business there and had to justify my intrusion
So unlike the experience of "ex-pats" living in the United States, who we're told are entitled to make their home here
Near as I can tell, the "lesson" he's trying to convey is that by living in weird lands, after dealing with their governments and people, you begin to intuit how good you had it in the USA and that you'd 'fit' better back home.
He starts by saying "What seems a contradiction is resolved in my core belief that expatriation, like old-fashioned laborious travel, is flight and pursuit in equal measure. It is both the desire to leave home and the passion to find something new, to pick up stakes and discover who you are in a different landscape and culture."
I suspect my very different experience, after half as many years in some of the same places, is that I was pretty confident that I knew who I was -- and it was in my case much more pursuit of gleaming opportunities than it was flight from anything.
I really enjoyed my many years working overseas, sometimes in exciting and exotic places, sometimes in grim former communist countries, sometimes in rather pristine and savage sh*tholes - but I always looked forward to coming home and am glad I did.
Really surprised the usual suspects haven't weighed in by now to praise non-US women as the best feature of expat life....
JSM
For a while Theroux was one of my favorite authors, along with his friend V.S. Naipaul. Both of them treated the theme of not quite belonging where you ended up. I came to this country as a legal refugee from Cuba in 1961, at age 5, and becake a citizen in early adulthood. I love this country, more, it seems, than a lot of the native born. And I am certainly grateful for the chance to grow up and grow old here. But sometimes I still feel like a guest.
D'oh! Became.
Our family, including our teenage son, lived in New Zealand for 7 1/2 years aside from a few British expats on 9/11 our experiences were largely positive. We rarely felt like trespassers. That son is now a musungu in Africa where he has lived for 11 years. He loves it. Government officials are occasionally difficult but his relationship with the country and its people will lead him to stay permanently - I'm sad to say
Assimilation is a novel, some would say green, expectation.
"For a while"? He was and is one of my favorites, even if I haven't read anything by him in years. (Including the 'free' NYT article--if I have to register, I don't consider it free.)
Anent the Afghanistan thread ,and this one about foreigners fitting into local cultures,, I went there with a blond, sun-sensitive guy from New Zealand. He didn't tan, he just turned a medium-rare-to-rare pink.
Somehow I learned the Pashto playful nickname for an Englishman, "Mistah kooch-aloo".
So I took pains to call my Kiwi friend that when Afghans were nearby , just to watch the expression on their faces.
"Mistah Kooch-Aloo" means "Mister Red Potato Head."
It fit.
Why is it that you feel like a guest? In my experience, Americans are the most welcoming to legal immigrants of any culture. All that is asked of aliens is to appreciate what makes America wonderful. Oh, and bring the best of your home country cuisine.
Years spent in Switzerland and I never was recognized by the neighbors and merchants as anything other than Mr. / Ms. YRS.
In the US, a delightful new neighbor family from Singapore moved in and, in short order, decided this is a pretty good place to raise a family and pursued a green card. They cried after earning PR status and having many people tell them and show them that they are as American as someone who's family came over on the Mayflower.
We lived in an apartment in Düsseldorf for nearly five years, very near the Gehry buildings.
Getting a driving license in Germany is arduous — if US driver training was as rigorous, we'd have a quarter the traffic fatalities, in part because a third of US drivers wouldn't be allowed behind the wheel.
Tried learning the language, Berlitz has a great program, but it was impossible. At work, everyone spoke English. When I tried German on Germans, they invariably replied in English. And when I traveled, which was almost always, no one outside Germany speaks German.
American lefties have it pretty good at home. Foreign living must be disconcerting for them…
They certainly are a benefit of expat life. I even married one.
Theroux wrote a fantastic account of traveling overland from Cairo to Cape Town. No infrastructure, little law -- completely nuts.
I've passed Theroux's "test" many times over. I don't agree with his generalizations about being an expat - he should have phrased it as how he feels not as a global rule.
My own experiences; Learning a foreign langauge was the toughest thing I've done - much tougher than law school and passing the bar. I felt like someone was fucking with my brain, rerouting my neural networks. But I don't have an affinity for learning langauges - for some it's a piece of cake.
And, it's better to be a stranger in a strange land than a stranger in your own land.
A lot of people in Ireland learned the Irish language in school, but it's possible that more people in Ireland speak Polish or Ukrainian at home on a daily basis than speak Irish. Traditionally, the Irish haven't been unwelcoming to foreigners. They didn't get many. More people left than came there. There's a lot of hostility now and with reason. I don't think they're particularly xenophobic. It's more that the Irish are more likely to take to the streets than the British or most other Europeans.
Just looking at the pictures of those buildings is disorienting.
I dunno, rich author opining on the joys of gypsy like "ex-pat' life leaves me not caring.
I have a half-baked plan to live in Norway for a year after I retire, if I can finagle some sort of job. I already have the language (English works pretty good there too) and know the country pretty well. It would be an interesting adventure, but it can only be a sort of break-even proposition.
The same thing happened to me in French, then I tried something, I listened to a playlist of the same ten French songs, once a day, for months, until I began to understand them intuitively in French; each day I might hear a couple more things. At that point, my accent had improved enough that the last time I went to France, when I spoke French, people would generally, but not always, reply in French. But I was happiest when I ran into people who refused to speak English, because then they had laid a marker down, and sort of had to make the effort.
I know that Althouse is against travel, but I like it. For instance, if I hadn't driven from Lyons to Aix en Provence, I wouldn't have noticed that hill along the route that looks exactly like the drawing of the snake that swallowed the elephant in The Little Prince. Who knows, maybe Hemingway saw it too and used it in his story "Hills Like White Elephants;" it did look kind of pregnant. Anyway, it was a very unusual looking hill.
Living abroad is great. It helps to be "curious about" v. "put off by". English is the most useful language in the world. Survial skills in another are helpful but not nearly as much as cash and a smile.
I don't want live as a member of another culture; just know enough about it to show respect.
You can dump me anywhere in the world and if I don't need to be on the next ride out, I'll be comfortable right off the bat. Good things will come my way. "Lost in translation" is alien to me.
Off to Vietnam next month. Solo. Haven't been there since "The Unpleasantness".
BTW, Paul is an interesting read and insightful traveller. But, IMO, he would be the world's worst travelling companion.
The Philippines has a special retirement visa, and you can either live in a cheap area or in a sophisticated area. Myself, my husband was Filipino and we moved here to his home town where I am one of the few non FIlipino Yankees. No problem, since our family is well known. But although you can live comfortably on Social Security, there is the problem of medicine: most docs speak English and caregivers are cheap, but it's not the same as family.
As for working overseas: lots of paper work involved...Some ex pats stay in areas with foreigners (as I did working with a Catholic mission) so not much culture shock. But I also worked at an African hospital in a different country and had to learn cooking and getting around.
Finally, don't forget: In case of war, typhoons, landslides, etc you might have to leave in a hurry.
The best thing about Theroux is that he makes no pretense or apologies about being an asshole.
It's like Johnny Miller on golf or Bobby Knight on basketball.
Regarding xenophobia (or general discomfort with outsiders), a couple of my acquaintance tried to rent an apartment there. He was white but she was dark skinned with straight hair and had a highly educated white USA mainstream accent and background. They welcomed him and liked her on the phone, but as soon as they saw her every apartment was "already rented" or a mysterious problem arose.
I also watched a woman from the UK absolutely melt down because of the shock of visiting a Venice(!) restaurant. Her cultural/dietary discomfort was so bad that they had to leave before ordering, even as her husband was fine.
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