December 11, 2022

"If you lived through the 1980s there’s a decent chance that, at some point, you crossed paths with raspberry vinaigrette, pesto, and arugula."

"By the end of the decade, they had become part of the atmosphere hanging over American society, like a giant cloud of Aqua Net holding up so many teased bangs. Many loved these foods; many others derided them as pretentious yuppie garbage. But the source of their popularity, at least in home kitchens, was all but undisputed: The Silver Palate Cookbook, originally published in 1982, more than 2.5 million copies sold. The cookbook was a product of its time and place: New York’s Upper West Side in the late 1970s and early ’80s. A world synonymous (at least in the mind of the average moviegoer) with Woody Allen and then Nora Ephron. You can bet that before they were forced to play Pictionary at that dinner party, Harry and Sally were fed salmon mousse and chicken Marbella or maybe osso bucco. (Ephron was a Silver Palate fan.)"

From "‘The Silver Palate Cookbook’ Changed Home Cooking (and Pesto Consumption) As We Know It/Published in 1982, it brought verve to entertaining and taught a generation of American cooks to trust in bold flavors, fresh herbs, and the joys of improvisation" (Eater).

Yeah, I had 2 "Silver Palate" cookbooks on my kitchen cookbook shelf for more than 30 years. In fact, they made such a permanent impression on my eyeballs that I just went over to look at them. But no, they're gone. Some time in the last 10 years, I realized I hadn't opened them in more than 15 years and gave them the heave-ho. Maybe it was back in that year when we were all looking at things and asking if they "sparked joy." You can ask if it's time yet to oust that sparking-joy book, but that was never anything but a Kindle text. 

Here's the Kindle text of the "Silver Palate Cookbook." It's only $3. Eat like the 80s.

Back to the Eater article:

The authors were eager to explain what, exactly, arugula and pesto were and offered many simple suggestions for how to use them. Sure, they made excellent garnishes, but why not try serving the arugula with a simple garlic-anchovy dressing or scrambling pesto into eggs?

Although some recipes, like the cassoulet, ventured into Julia Child territory (has there ever been a cassoulet that doesn’t take at least three days to prepare?), the abundant marginal notes, along with Lukins’s doodle-like line drawings and quotes from sources as varied as Shakespeare and Kay Thompson’s Eloise, gave — and still give — the book a tone that reads as friendly rather than instructional....

[T]he recipes were novel and aspirational, but not entirely out of reach for the average American cook.... They were unafraid of booze, butter, cream, and olive oil. They adored mousses and mayonnaise, both Hellmann’s and homemade. They could not resist the urge to dress every piece of meat with fruit, or at the very least, a fruity vinaigrette and some fresh herbs. Their favorite appliance was the food processor. They also clearly loved dinner parties...

Food processors! Dinner parties! We thought we'd eat like that forever.

29 comments:

mccullough said...

The 80s were Blade Runner and Die Hard.

Blood Meridian and White Noise.

Walter Payton and Lawrence Taylor..

The food was ok, not great. Just like the music.

And the murder rate was high.

cassandra lite said...

Upper West Side? If it's Woody Allen, it's UES, no?

Wilbur said...

They were indeed great cookbooks. I still have two of them and look at them every so often.

Now you can find more cooking recipes, advice and tips online than we could with a library of books.

clinkmd said...

Best meatloaf recipe ever.

http://1slomama.blogspot.com/2013/08/market-street-meat-loaf-silver-palate.html

Sydney said...

Never had the Silver Palate Cookbook, but I immediately recognized the name and the cover. Saw it a lot in bookstores and other peoples’ houses.

YoungHegelian said...

Oh No! Not the Salmon Mousse!

Freeman Hunt said...

I forgot about raspberry vinaigrette. That stuff was great. Who doesn't eat pesto now?

Narr said...

My wife and I still put raspberry vinaigrette on our fruity salads, and bought a jar of pesto just the other day for the first time in months or years.

She used to attempt time-consuming things: once she wanted to make some authentic choucrout and spent most of a weekend--it seemed--doing it just right with her Le Creuset cookpots in our tiny kitchen.

"It's just sauerkraut and sausage, right?"

It's just sauerkraut and sausage. I mentioned it to her a while back in relation to something on TV and she didn't remember it at all.



Kate said...

I still only have the Joy of Cooking. And no one in their right mind likes arugula. Now I know who to blame for its ubiquity in salad kits.

n.n said...

Watermelon, too. Pretentious publications from the outer fringes.

wildswan said...

I'd throw in the evolution of the PC and its expansion into society through business software and games as a prime activity of the Eighties and on into the Nineties. I was in all that and I've noticed how unclear people are about the timeline of the arrival of the personal computer and the related social changes. The PC, Windows, mice, graphics, e-mail, networking, business software and games were not present in society in 1980 and were dominant by 1990 (although not as sophisticated or widespread as they later became.) In the Eighties everything was changing; everybody was learning computers and software. That was the social backdrop. A strange blue light was streaming across society - arugula, Legos, the Star Wars, Indiana Jones and Diehard franchises, A Christmas Story - that's when it all began. The iPhone. digital cameras, streaming services in the 21st Century were huge but after the Eighties everyone knew how to handle digital innovation. (Or did they? Can you say "Crypto-currency?" )

Zavier Onasses said...

...Harry and Sally were fed salmon mousse and chicken Marbella or maybe osso bucco.

What! No Spotted Dick?

Baceseras said...

It took more than one cookbook to make the 80s foodie. Alice Waters, Martha Stewart (Entertains), The Enchanted Broccoli Forest, and more; along with the explosive growth of mail-order lifestyle enhancers: Williams-Sonoma, Zabar's, Aga cookers, hell even Vermont Country Store's precious descriptions of Necco Wafers and Moon Pies contributed; and the multiplying cooking shows on TV, the ratio heavily favoring chef- rather than homemaker-instructors.

Earnest Prole said...

The Chicken Marbala recipe from that cookbook is killer. Omit the brown sugar and substitute dried apricots for the prunes. Trust me.

Mike said...

Where and when else was Obama going to learn to comment about, "Have you seen the price of arugula" to a bunch of Iowa farmers. Yes there's a Silver Palate cookbook on the book shelf in our libary of cookbooks--and we've ven made a few recipes from it. But out here in California the "big dog" heroes on the culinary scene were mostly Alice Waters and the various young chefs that passed through her kitchen at Chez Panisse in Berkeley.

Of course there were also the myriad ethnic chefs, restaurants and cuisines that abound in Southern California.

Leora said...

I a a fan of cookbooks from the 20's, 39's and 40's. The first recipe in the original Joy of Cooking starts out "Stand facing the stove..."

Lilly, a dog said...

Maybe New Yorkers did, but in the 80s the average moviegoer in the 80s didn't give a rat's ass about Woody Allen. Ghostbusters, James Cameron, Spielberg, Top Gun, John Hughes. Long Duk Dong--"Hey Howard, there's your Chinaman."

Lucien said...

THe 80's make me think Cajun: Gumbo, popcorn shrimp & blackened redfish. Then lamb rack and garlic prawns at Mustache Cafe. Pastrami sandwiches from Greenblatt's (before I found Langer's). Brunch at Four Oaks. (These were LA Places). But earlier, Mai's #3 at 5th and Clement.

Nancy Reyes said...

What I find annoying in this is that the author assumed everyone ate arugula.

Caroline said...

My original Silver Palate cookbook is falling apart, a memento mori. I have them both, the original white plus the Good Times red one, which is totally meh. So funny this should come up.. I have been poring over the cookbook to create the Christmas Eve meal I never could pull off in the 80s. I’m feeling very sentimental. Their potato Swiss gratin and beef tenderloin is eternally relevant. The scribbles in the margins …l priceless. Prepare a chicken pot pie in the morning, so it’s ready to pop in the oven when you get home from a brisk day of Christmas shopping.
I ask you, does anything sound better than that? I was living in Manhattan when it came out, so was my sister. She lived two blocks from the silver palate. That was the good life: pesto and yes, chicken Marbella from silver palate, bran muffins from Zabar’s. I lived close to Balduccis… a whole ‘nother realm for the senses. Don’t be dissin the 80s food bible! A little respect!

Caroline said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Kathryn51 said...

Earnest Prole said:

The Chicken Marbala recipe from that cookbook is killer. Omit the brown sugar and substitute dried apricots for the prunes. Trust me.

I have both cookbooks - they are spotted with olive oil, balsamic (never bought the raspberry) vinegar and various and sundry other bits and pieces of food that spilled or flew through the air at the wrong moment. Favorites: Williamsburg Cake, Blueberry Orange muffins and the one my husband loves: Smoked Turkey/Jarlsberg/Grape Salad with sherry mayonnaise dressing. I make the last one several times every summer.

As for the Chicken Marbala - I often looked at the rather complex recipe and always chose something else. If Earnest says it is killer (w/dried apricots), then it will go on my "to Try" list this winter. Thanks for the recommendation.

Mrs. X said...

I made SP curried butternut squash soup with apples for Thanksgiving. I made enough that I thought I'd have it left over for at least week but Mr X and I scarfed it all down in 3 days. So delish.

Kathryn51 said...

Earnest Prole said:

The Chicken Marbala recipe from that cookbook is killer. Omit the brown sugar and substitute dried apricots for the prunes. Trust me.

I have both cookbooks - they are spotted with olive oil, balsamic (never bought the raspberry) vinegar and various and sundry other bits and pieces of food that spilled or flew through the air at the wrong moment. Favorites: Williamsburg Cake, Blueberry Orange muffins and the one my husband loves: Smoked Turkey/Jarlsberg/Grape Salad with sherry mayonnaise dressing. I make the last one several times every summer.

As for the Chicken Marbala - I often looked at the rather complex recipe and always chose something else. If Earnest says it is killer (w/dried apricots), then it will go on my "to Try" list this winter. Thanks for the recommendation.

Biff said...

Arugula is fine when used as a food. It is distasteful when used as a signifier of status or fashion.

Douglas B. Levene said...

I moved to New York in 1981, when I graduated law school. I lived on W. 74th street, about a block away from the Silver Palate. It was a tiny little food store with great take out prepared meals. I loved the cookbook, too, but its recipes are complicated and high in fat, and not friendly for vegetarians or gluten-free folks, in the same last-century category as The French Chef or another NYC fave from the 1980s, the Dean & DeLuca cookbook. But I pulled it out this year to cook my Thanksgiving turkey, since I was very rusty, not having cooked a t urkey since 2009.

Vonnegan said...

The Silver Palate Cookbook was the first cookbook I bought myself. My first summer job at 15 (1985) was at a small deli in my hometown that had modeled itself in part after SP, and they sold the cookbook in the store. I was just beginning to discover how much I loved to cook, and how much I loved learning about "new" food (new to me) - Black Forest ham and brie sandwiches! (much better than regular ham & cheese), balsamic vinegar, fresh herbs, oh look, grapes in the chicken salad!, and so on. Pesto came later, at my last waitress job (1991) - when I left the chef let me take whatever of her recipes I wanted. I still have that pesto recipe somewhere.

Thank you for the link to the Kindle version - just seeing the cover made me happy.

Narr said...

Yep, there's an SP Cookbook among the wife's few dozen cookery tomes. There were some slips marking the Creme Brulee and one at a page for some potato recipes.

An early pbk edition, 1982. She showed my a later volume--1989--by the same gals, and recalls roasting a turkey to their specs.

Christy said...

For the record, Amazon's algorithm presents me with the Kindle price of $15. I wish I understood why.

Salmon mousse was standard on my party menus in the 80s, occasionally I switched it up to crab mousse. Raspberry vinaigrette is still popular here in East Tennessee.