May 22, 2022

"That in the 19th century, men of the Nez Perce tribe of the Pacific Northwest who wore their hair long in the back faced pressure from Christian missionaries..."

"... to abandon the style in favor of something more 'civilized' tells us about the evils of cultural erasure, but also about conformity more broadly. In much of the Western world, mullets have largely been seen as a thwarting, whether one celebrated or feared, of convention. Take David Bowie, who wore chalky white makeup, psychedelic jumpsuits and a coiffed orange mullet to debut his otherworldly alter ego Ziggy Stardust in 1972. Not long after this glamorous alien emerged came a more working-class punk subculture for which rebellion was a raison d’ĂȘtre. And as much as torn clothes, safety pins, chains and piercings — the stuff of 'confrontation dressing,' as Vivienne Westwood called it — the mullet played a large part in the aesthetics of the movement. For one, the ragged style was purposefully ugly.... Perhaps, the mullet elicited such strong reactions because it refuses to be any one thing, sitting at the midpoint between long and short, masculine and feminine and tasteful and tacky. But if an inability to categorize causes discomfort in some, this sort of in-betweenness is just what some are looking for, especially at a time when gender and taste both feel, rightfully and crucially, so fluid. No wonder, then, that over the last five years the mullet has experienced a relative resurgence."

From "What the Mullet Means Now/The subversive hairstyle has found its way to runways and red carpets once again. But is there anyone left to shock?" by Megan Bradley (NYT).

Speaking of fluidity, the essay writer flowed from the concept of confrontational ugliness to the notion of "in-betweenness" and connecting the concept of being neither long nor short with the concept of being neither male nor female. I can see why in-betweenness can be unsettling to some people and why the refusal to commit to male or female can read as ugly — to some people — and feel confrontational.

It's almost possible to say, completely objectively, that a mullet is ugly. But it can look cool to wear something ugly if you can sell the idea that you're doing it on purpose and you love it. That it bothers fussy people is part of the energy you're absorbing and reflecting. That's another way of saying that if you don't like how other people are expressing themselves, you might want to deprive them of a reaction. Because — as my mother used to say — you'll only encourage them.

27 comments:

Kate said...

As far as I can tell, the Nez Perce didn't wear mullets. Bash Christians, briefly reference Indians, and then write the article about something quite different. A journalist's template.

Christopher B said...

"That's another way of saying that if you don't like how other people are expressing themselves, you might want to deprive them of a reaction. Because — as my mother used to say — you'll only encourage them."

::starts looking for a pair of shorts::

Owen said...

Prof A: very glad you read this tripe so I don’t have to. I can’t even *imagine* writing it: coming up with a “hook,” dropping in that pseudo-scholarly reference to the Nez Perce hair style (and the obligatory slam on White Christian cultural oppression), meandering around with unfalsifiable claims about transgressive aesthetics and gender constructs as if it were a Big New Thing. True fashion froth-prose: much fuss manufactured from thin air to sell a fun feeling.

I admire your penetration as well your diligence, and I hazard the guess that by deconstructing accounts of inconsequential junk like this, you gain greater skill to do the same to the Times’ more “serious” offerings.

Josephbleau said...

I was trying to think of a fashion that would shock people now, perhaps a full body tattoo where you are all green or something. But that would be racist, because it would not work for minority people. ( There is only one minority group, you know.) Perhaps actually cutting off your nose, ears, or fingers would shock people for a while. Full nudity in public would be momentarily shocking, then after that became passé you would need to have Christmas tree ornaments hanging off inserted dildos and stuff.

Joe Smith said...

Canadian hockey players had the best mullets.

wildswan said...

In the Pilgrim colony at Massachusetts Bay Governor Endicott banned long hair. This was partly because long curling hair was characteristic of the Cavaliers, the chief enemy of the Pilgrims and Puritans and Massachusetts Bay and New England. But in Massachusetts Bay the young men with long hair were copying Wampanoag hair styles - long hair or braids. So there in Massachusetts Bay long hair was aristocratic and, simultaneously, uncivilized, due to the presence of two outside cultures, i.e., Cavalier England and Wampanoag Massachusetts. Oh, if you go back to the beginning, it's all there which is one reason why the Constitutional principles can meet modern situations. Why, the Pilgrim colony was originally a socialist experiment.

Cavalier and Roundhead hair style
https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.timetoast.com/public/uploads/photos/11194567/churlz.jpg
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iAOfemrP2vo/TcL2qpe1pNI/AAAAAAAAAFs/KnM9Yk__69o/s760/roundhead.jpg

Wampanoag
"Their hair was straight, black and glossy-and no lack of it. Baldness was a rarity. No boy could wear his hair long until he reached the age of sixteen. Then, like his elders, he would pamper his hair more than the women. It was dressed daily with bear fat to give it a sheen, and frequently soot was added to deepen the natural black color. Hair styles for the men were limited only by the wearer's imagination. The most popular was the cockscomb-a strip of hair running down the center of the head. The hairdo was kept short and stiff with paints and grease-the sides of the scalp were shaved or plucked. King Philip's Wampanoag warriors preferred this style. Often artificial roaches of deer bristles, dyed to a brilliant red, were tied to the head to heighten the effect. Others wore the hair to the shoulders, in which case it might be braided or left trailing down the back of the head like a scalp lock. Bits of shell, stones, metal and the like were often tied into the hair for decoration. Some tied the crown hair into a top knot or let it dangle down, much like a horse's tail. Others shaved their heads on one side and let the hair grow long on the other. There were others who shaved all but a small tuft, the scalp lock, at the back of the head. It was an invitation for the enemy to grab the hairy handle as a trophy if he dared. William Wood noted that “...other cuts they have as their fancie befools them, which would torture the wits of a curious Barber to imitate.”
https://sites.rootsweb.com/~mosmd/appearance.htm
https://sites.rootsweb.com/~mosmd/hairstylesformen.jpg

Rollo said...

How long before people with mullets and men who wear short pants are added to the burgeoning LGBTQ acronym?

Kevin said...

tells us about the evils of cultural erasure, but also about conformity more broadly.

We don't need to look to the past to learn about the nature and social costs of conformity.

Rocketeer said...

How can one discuss mullets without even mentioning the ancient Lacedaemonians even once in passing?

Lurker21 said...

The mullet became identified with working class White guys and thus fell under the interdict. Hipsters may try to revive it -- similar to how bowling shirts, Sinatra's Rat Pack, and tattoos became a thing in the 90s. They will wear the mullet proudly and "ironically." Your father's mullet was Billy Ray Cyrus. Your mullet will be Miley Cyrus. She may even try out the hairstyle, if she's not still bald.

n.n said...

Pride and progress. A tale not of lions, not of lionesses, and not their [unPlanned] cubs playing in gay abandon.

Carol said...

I like that first hairdo at the top but I hardly think of it as a mullet.

And gee you'd have to get it cut twice a month to keep it looking right.

J said...

Tribal signalling.fashion geeks are nothing outside the cities.Most "aesthetic" affectation and conforming behaviors also seem Veblenesque to me.Oh BTW. it is summer here in FL. Shorts and buzz cuts prevail.

Wince said...

"DANG!"

Hammond X. Gritzkofe said...

Anton Chigurh

Temujin said...

The mullet still lives under the radar in the world of hockey. It's not like the glory days of the mullet, but there are still some remnants floating around the minor leagues. If it makes a genuine resurgence, it'll be shone in its full glory next season in the NHL. And for the record, there is no sport more brutally masculine than the hockey at the NHL level. If there is a trans player in the NHL, it's not someone you'd want to f*** with.

rcocean said...

I love the random attack on Christians and the little factoid about an obscure Indian tribe. I'm sure the NYT's readers just lap up the elite signaling.

The only two men's hairstyle fads that I find interesting are

1) the "crew cut". For some reason it was adopted by boys/men in the 50s and early 60s as "cool". I'm not sure why.

2) The switch over to beards and mustacahces that occured in the mid-19th century USA and continued through to about 1920. Taft was our last POTUS with a mustache.

Michael K said...

Someone is paid to write this stuff ?

realestateacct said...

The best hair cut I ever had was modeled on Jane Fonda in "Klute" which was a sort of mullet.

Bilwick said...

rcocean, the Nez Perce were an "obscure" Amerindian tribe? Well, okayyy . . .

mikee said...

Hipster males now copy lesbian butch hairstyles, which are vaguely Viking looking. Make of this what you will. Human decoration is usually a mating, wealth, status, identity group or class display.

Oh for the days of shaved heads for lice prevention and tarred
pigtails on sailormen! At least powdered wigs and formal hats are still out of fashion.

The Vault Dweller said...

When I read this blog, I scroll through from top to bottom. When I saw this post about mullets, which I agree is rather unattractive hairstyle, I immediately thought about making a comment about men in shorts, which I know our hostess doesn't like. Then lo and behold what is directly beneath the post about mullets, but a post about men in shorts. This must be an ugly Sunday for our hostess indeed.

boatbuilder said...

Golfer Cameron Smith has a spectacularly low-rent mullet to go with one of the worst moustaches ever.

But he's a brilliant golfer who makes millions of dollars a year.

So I am envious.

Bender said...

Wasn't some trans guy making some complaint about gratuitous insults?

rcocean said...

Oh, knowing about the Nez perce is now a signifier of high status. LOL. Oh, you don't know about the Nez perce tribe? How gauche. everyone who's anyone knows all about them.

loudogblog said...

Back in the early 1980s, one of my college roommates wanted to give me a haircut. I had big 1970s "Robby Benson" hair at the time. So he cuts my hair in the dining room. When he finished, I went to the bathroom to see how it looked and I exclaimed, "You gave me a mullet!" He responded, "Well, you're the first white guy's hair I've ever cut."

I don't agree that the mullet is automatically ugly. There was a time, in the late 80s and early 90s, when it was very popular. There's Patrick Swayze in Road House, Kiefer Sutherland in The Lost Boys and Mel Gibson in Lethal Weapon. (Yes, I have all those films on laserdisc.)

There is also a very funny, coffee table book called, The Mullet: Hairstyle of the Gods. I highly recommend it.

wildswan said...


Chief Joseph of the Nez Perce said:
"I am tired of fighting. Our chiefs are killed. Looking Glass is dead. Toohoolhoolzote is dead. The old men are all dead. It is the young men who say, 'Yes' or 'No.' He who led the young men [Olikut] is dead. It is cold, and we have no blankets. The little children are freezing to death. My people, some of them, have run away to the hills, and have no blankets, no food. No one knows where they are—perhaps freezing to death. I want to have time to look for my children, and see how many of them I can find. Maybe I shall find them among the dead. Hear me, my chiefs! I am tired. My heart is sick and sad. From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever."