June 22, 2021

"The next morning, I return to Viroqua for a stroll through the town’s vaunted bookstore, Driftless Books, housed in another massive tobacco warehouse."

"The walls are covered floor to ceiling in secondhand books. Framed custom portraits hang from the rafters. A moose head. A rusting sousaphone... 'So yeah, one thing led to another, and a guy gave me this building,' says owner Eddy Nix, a community fixture in Viroqua. He is wearing a loose sweater and patched denim, and he wraps used books in donated paper bags as I pepper him with questions about the store. 'Literally just gave it to you?' I ask. 'He was like some guerrilla philanthropist,' he says. They met when Nix was running the first iteration of his shop in nearby Viola. A stranger walked in one day looking for Richard Brautigan’s 'Trout Fishing in America.' Nix sold him a copy, along with a preorder for 'Wake Up,' Jack Kerouac’s posthumously published biography of the Buddha. And that was that — until a year later, when Nix grew obsessed with this empty old warehouse in Viroqua and finally contacted the owner, who asked whether the Kerouac book had arrived yet. 'It was the same dude!' he says. 'And then like five months later, after forcing me to read the complete commentaries of Gurdjieff and all this metaphysical hoodoo, he gives me the building, like out of the blue.'"

Oh, no! The Washington Post has discovered Wisconsin! 

I'm reading "In southwestern Wisconsin, the bucolic Driftless Area is an overlooked gem."

My favorite comment over there is from Owen Caterwall:

Please, please don't come here. Don't bring your crappy coffee shops, your whiney tourists, your behemoth vehicles, your brassy loud voices, your unsolicited opinions, and your bored witless kids. People live here. It's not quaint, or cute, or charming, or fey. It's where we live and conduct our lives. It's not a museum or gawkers' paradise. Go to Disneyland. You'll have more fun.

But there are so many Americans busting out of the lockdown looking for places in America to explore by car. They are wary of airplanes and they know that too many other people are going to the most well-known places. You open the newspaper and see the "overlooked gem" that's right outside your door. How would you feel?

By the way, the "Driftless Area" is a geological term. Here in Madison, we're living in the terrain left by the glaciation of the last Ice Age. That's why we have our lakes. But go just a bit West and you're in the area the glacier did not drift into and flatten. There are — I'm quoting Wikipedia — "steep, forested ridges, deeply carved river valleys, and karst geology characterized by spring-fed waterfalls and cold-water trout streams."

10 comments:

Ann Althouse said...

Temujin writes:

It's so funny when those on the coast stumble onto the vast wilderness between New York and LA and find that, my God...there's some beautiful places there. With...lakes...and woods and...small, cute towns with...people! Some parts of our country are so utterly provincial, particularly the Northeast. It is even more special when it comes out of New York or Washington who pride themselves on being so worldly. So intelligent. So sophisticated. So much so that they cannot comprehend anyone actually living there, creating families, businesses, choosing to remain there, or- gasp!- moving there from another place. (how could that be?)

Many of these people are missing what makes this country great. There is so much to see. It's as if we're in the early 1800s and anything west of Pennsylvania is still just the frontier to those Northeastern folk. Bless their hearts.

Ann Althouse said...

Brian writes:

Wisconsin is crowded enough, without More east coast hipsters coming!

But, I DO just want to remind people,
That There Is NO Reason to visit Iowa
We have NO scenery
We have NO coffee shops
And, Most Importantly
WE HAVE *NO* TROUTS
Nothing to see in Iowa folks, just Move Along

Ann Althouse said...

Mike writes: "Does Wisconsin have a lot of tobacco warehouses? If so, then why?"

Here's an article about tobacco buildings in Wisconsin. They're being repurposed. I guess they are interesting buildings for urban renewal projects. Madison has some nice apartments made from a tobacco warehouse.

They exist because there was enough tobacco farming around here to require warehouses.

Ann Althouse said...

Christian writes:

When we lived in Fort Wayne, a friend and her California-bred husband came to visit. We killed a couple of hours one afternoon driving around the Amish territory northwest of town. Later that evening, he asked me what they really did for a living. He actually thought it was all an act.

P.S.: The three counties in the southwest corner of the driftless area were the subject of my Senior Thesis (Geography major).

Ann Althouse said...

Whiskeybum writes:

"I vividly recall a plane trip that I took from Milwaukee to Des Moines a few years after moving to Wisconsin, passing over SW Wisconsin and looking down, and seeing the remarkably different landscape from what I was accustomed to in SE Wisconsin. The pattern of the hills looked to me as a vegetation-like fractal pattern of dark and light greens. This can easily be seen on Google Maps in the ‘satellite’ mode – just center the image over, say, Richland Center and adjust the zoom so that you are seeing something on the order of 25-40 miles across your screen."

Ann Althouse said...

chickelit writes:

"I moved back to a small Wisconsin town in the Driftless Region a 40 year's absence. My roots here are deep: my paternal ancestors co-founded Viola in the mid-1800's and most are buried in a tiny secluded family cemetery there. My parents met in Richland Center where they both grew up. I was raised in Middleton which borders on the Driftless Zone. After getting a degree at UW-Madison I left, never to come back until the failure of my 30+ year marriage. My wife told me to "go back to your people." I did, and I'm healing, slowly, with the help of what family remains and some new friends."

Ann Althouse said...

Mary writes:

The responses reminded me that nobody likes tourists! When I lived in NYC my husband and I would complain about tourists because they don’t know how to walk on the sidewalk. They often walk very slow, or take sudden stops to just stand there, or the classic sidewalk barrier where 4 or 5 in a group would walk side by side so that you had to almost step out into the street to go around them.

And of course we all know what “too touristy” means when referring to anything.

However I do think it’s good for city people to explore small towns, and for small town people to visit big cities.

Ann Althouse said...

Chris writes:

The treatment of the middle of the country by the coasts reminds me of the 1844 quote by Ralph Waldo Emerson:

“Europe stretches to the Alleghenies; America lies beyond.”

Ann Althouse said...

Dan writes:

Pres. Obama's alma mater, Punahou School, is a private, K-12 college prep school in Honolulu.

IIRC, the presentation to parents of incoming juniors includes a presentation by the college counseling staff. On a large screen they show a simple map of the Mainland US. There are two vertical lines, one going through Western Nevada and one through Western Pennsylvania. Between the lines is written "Mississippi River" and something like "U Kansas", the alma mater of the since-retired creator of the map.

Number one daughter wound up attending the Harvard of the Midwest, which, fortunately, turned out to be close to, but not within, the River. See,

https://www.cartoonistgroup.com/cartoon/Mother+Goose+and+Grimm/2015-02-09/122904

BTW, count me as another supporter of the current blog style.

Ann Althouse said...

Gregg writes:

Ann- I lived in Chicago in the late 70s, often when I drove back home to St. Paul I would get off 90 in Madison and take US 14 northwest to LaCrosse (Home of Heileman’s Special Export, aka the Green Death) passing through the what I now know is called Driftless Area. I’d cross the river at LaCrosse and head up US 61 to St. Paul. A beautiful drive. The only down side to going that way is missing the Norskie Nook in Osceola.

(Side Note: Along 61 is the spot where my great grandfather James McDonough staked out his farm overlooking the Mississippi in Kellogg, MN; family legend has it that he was the first white settler in Wabasha County, although proof of that claim is err… somewhat lacking.)

I’m always amused by these East Coast anthropological pieces- kinda like the upper west siders are observing the bushmen of the Kalahari.

Also re the bookstore vignette, we have plenty of these old hippies who think they are on the cutting edge of cool here in Amherst. They were annoying 50 years ago, even more so now- go to a Dead and Company show if you doubt me.

I would further speculate that few of the visitors to the bookstore would be caught dead at a Friday fish fry or a meat raffle.