November 14, 2020

"And their eyes — wow, it was like someone turned the lights on."

The image is from Earl Shaffer's Appalachian Hike Diary (1948), every page of which you can see at that link, at the Smithsonian website. 

I'm reading about Shaffer this morning in "Walking off the War on the Appalachian Trail," a new article at Gaia GPS. The author is Abby Levene.

Shaffer was the first person to through-hike the Appalachian Trail:
He travelled alone, walking around 17 miles a day. Shaffer packed light. He nixed a tent when he realized his poncho could double as a shelter. He mended his clothes, and cooked cornbread in a pan over an open fire. Shaffer made it over the rocks, roots, and rubble in just one pair of Russell Moccasin Company “Birdshooter” boots. He resoled them twice, and they were in tatters by the end. 
You can still buy Russell Moccasin Company “Birdshooter” boots. They're from Berlin, Wisconsin. 

The article says that Shaffer's motivation was to “walk the war out of my system.” The main focus of the article is Sean Gobin, a Marine veteran who through-hiked the Appalachian Trail and thinks it was good for his mental health:
"Your brain really has nothing to do but start to focus on your life experiences and what you’ve gone through,” Gobin says. “You come to terms with it, and then start focusing on the future and what you want to do with your life; what’s really important to you. It was this really personal, cathartic experience.” 

He worked with Appalachian Trail Conservancy to bring the benefit of through-hiking to other veterans. His group is Warrior Expeditions. Describing the first group to do the hike, which he'd seen at the beginning and and then at the end, he said:

“The people I met in Maine were not the same people who started in Georgia,” Gobin says. “Physically, they had lost tons of weight. The pudgy vets who started up the trail no longer had an ounce of body fat. And their eyes — wow, it was like someone turned the lights on.”... 
Hiking with a heavy pack all day, every day helps burn off anxiety. The physical toll and time in nature alleviates depression. The routine puts hikers on a normal sleep schedule where they’re up with the sun and sleep when the sun sets. Plus, they’re so tired that they actually get a good night’s sleep. 
“It’s very structured,” Gobin says. “It strips away all the things in life that are unnecessary. It breaks life down to its most basic elements.”

Breaking life down to its most basic elements is an idea you see in Thoreau's "Walden": "I wanted... to reduce [life] to its lowest terms."

The full Thoreau sentence — diagram it! — is: "I wanted to live deep and suck out all the marrow of life, to live so sturdily and Spartan-like as to put to rout all that was not life, to cut a broad swath and shave close, to drive life into a corner, and reduce it to its lowest terms, and, if it proved to be mean, why then to get the whole and genuine meanness of it, and publish its meanness to the world; or if it were sublime, to know it by experience, and be able to give a true account of it in my next excursion."

And, yes, I have read Bill Bryson's "A Walk in the Woods," and I know he insults Thoreau:
The inestimably priggish and tiresome Henry David Thoreau thought nature was splendid, splendid indeed, so long as he could stroll to town for cakes and barley wine, but when he experienced real wilderness, on a visit to Katahdin in 1846, he was unnerved to the core. This wasn't the tame world of overgrown orchards and sun-dappled paths that passed for wilderness in suburban Concord, Massachusetts, but a forbidding, oppressive, primeval country that was "grim and wild... savage and dreary," fit only for "men nearer of kin to the rocks and wild animals than we." The experience left him, in the words of one biographer, "near hysterical.”

42 comments:

rehajm said...

Modern day hikers have cry days, too. Northbound it happens somewhere after Massachusetts. Everyone expects New Hampshire to be tough but people don't realize how hard Maine is...

Wilbur said...

I have a lifelong friend who has walked the length of the trail several times over, although never all at once. He swears by it.

Marcus Bressler said...

Over the years, I have enjoyed Bill Bryson's many books. He insults a lot of people, some of it deserved (Thoreau), some of it not-- depends on your POV. He spent a whole book ridiculing small-town America: The Lost Continent: Travels in Small-Town America. It was a superficial travelogue filled with straight-from-Liberal-Land takes on the south and other places. You want to read a real book about the south, read any of Rick Bragg's books. I am in the middle of "Where I Come From". He looks at the real south, warts and all, in most of his books and despite your preconceptions, you may discover a new appreciate for their way of life, past and present.

Back to Bryson: His books about England are written in a self-deprecating manner. Would he had done that about his own country. But that's not unusual for expatriates.

rehajm said...

Modern hikers vlog on you tube. My friend 'Mulligan' hiked last year raising money for his sister's ALS chapter. He 'mulligan on the at'...We watched him and ithers that started about the same time. Highlights included, snow, frost, injuries, bugs, bears, hike naked day, a murderer, shitty calories including half gallons of ice cream...

The stop at the AT museum at halfway has lots of stuff from the early days of the trail...

rehajm said...

...no birdshooters now. Hikers go through several pairs of ultra lightweights.

rehajm said...

...and forget hiking the AT alone. You may be solo but it's crowded out there...

Howard said...

Physical stress and maintenance of a lean and mean body melts away psychological stress. A return to self imposed Boot Camp.

Rusty said...

I owned a pair of those. Very comfortable but not very durable. I had to send them in every other season to get fixed for one thing or another.

Whiskeybum said...

Marcus @ 5:22

+1

Also, regarding his "Birdshooter" boots: "...He resoled them twice..."
Something that seems so from-the-past; can't imagine anyone doing this today - just throw them out and get a new pair is the modern attitude.

Temujin said...

I guess 73 million will be accessing the Appalachian Trail this year with a need to walk of the frustration of a stolen election. Not sure if Biden will still be in office by the time we come out in Maine.

hawkeyedjb said...

Those are fine looking boots, quite pricey. But only one "women's" pair available. I guess that says something about the ratio of the sexes in the bird-shooting endeavors. Critical question: how do we get more women into that sport?

I bought Mrs. Hawkeye a pistol last year; she's quite a good shot. I don't think she would shoot a bird, though.

Michael said...

Growing up I read in the paper about a guy in my city solo thru hiking the trail. He was a medic in Vietnam. Trying to forget it all.

Big Mike said...

You can still buy Russell Moccasin Company “Birdshooter” boots. They're from Berlin, Wisconsin

I am boycotting products from Wisconsin. Also anything from Philadelphia, Detroit, or Arizona. I urge other people to join me.

stevew said...

If he had to resole those boots twice - presumably on his AT trek - I would say he bought the wrong type of boots for the job. Not being one I am wondering if a Birdshooter has to walk a lot.

I've never hiked that far or long, but I have been on long range sailing trips and experienced the cleansing and calm referred to. After the first day or so at sea the small talk ends. We sit in silence for long periods. When we talk about things other than the details of sailing the boat, it is to discuss our life situations, relationships, goals, and dreams.

Hiking alone over a long distance and many days sounds appealing. How often and much did he think about death and dying?

Dust Bunny Queen said...

hawkeyedjb: Critical question: how do we get more women into that sport? aka birdshooting??

STEP ONE: Introduce your wife to target shooting, trap shooting. (Clay pigeons). Advance to sporting clays. (Golf with guns) Both are really fun, challenging. Sporting clays is a closer simulation of actual bird hunting. Upland game hunting that is. That may be as far as she will go, but will give her an idea of why bird hunting is a challenging activity. I loved trap shooting and sporting clays. All the fun of shooting and no messy game to clean or the guilt of taking a bird's life.

LIVE BIRD HUNTING TIP: Upland game is much more of a woman's sport (imo) than wildfowl such as geese or ducks. Mainly because the first doesn't require you to muck around in the cold water and crawl up to the targets...Unless you are hunkered down in a cozy blind...which to me seems unfair. Just like hunting deer from a platform in a tree. Cheating!!

STEP TWO: Have a good hunting dog/retriever. The fun of training that dog is enjoyable by anyone and women should like that as well. We used to take our Chesapeake on field trial competitions. (He was a whiz!!! And the BEST at retrieving waterfowl too) Shooting birds with companion dogs is a team sport. Plus the dogs are smart, friendly and love to play at the hunting game as well.

STEP THREE: EAT the birds. We only hunted birds (and other game) that you were going to eat...period. Pheasants. Pigeons. Geese. Ducks. Quail...not enough meat to make it worth your while. Get some good recipes 😁

You... Mr Hawkeye will likely have to field dress and clean the "game". If you advance to real targets. Since most people can't do that, at first...or ever. That is the big hurdle

Actually, the only reason to hunt, other than to rarely have to protect from predators or to eliminate vermin (DIE you Ground Squirrels!!!!!), should be if you are going eat the game: birds, deer, elk. I won't eat wild pig/boars or bears. Parasites. ICK!

I despise trophy hunters.

hawkeyedjb said...

Thank you for the advice, DBQ. We have not yet advanced beyond stationary paper targets with a .22LR pistol. Maybe we never will.

Fernandinande said...

Russell Moccasin Company “Birdshooter” boots.

For $600 I could buy 20 pairs of my favorite super-comfortable, light but sturdy and long-lasting boots. (not steel toe, though...?)

NorthOfTheOneOhOne said...

Thoreau was a pompous Yankee ass.

John henry said...

I don't understand why he had to get the boots resoled twice. At $500++ they not only should have lasted, they should have done the walking for him.

John Henry

John henry said...

NorthOfTheOneOhOne said...

Thoreau was a pompous Yankee ass

A wealthy pompous ass.

As someone, Nehru? said about ghandi, it cost a lot to keep Thoreau in poverty.

John Henry

Bob said...

I wondered for a moment which war the gentleman was trying to walk off. Then I saw the date (1948) so it was probably WWII. Unsettling that it could have been any war, any country, any time. Those who are in them need to figure out how to integrate it into their lives, push off the bad, wrap themselves with the memories of anything good. Glad he found a way.

John henry said...

Agree about the Walmart safety shoes. I prefer low cuts.

The very best, most comfortable, shoes I have ever worn are the Safetstep managers oxford from Payless. Only dress shoes I've worn for 20 years now, mostly the only shoes I've worn.

Not steel toe but non-slip sole. Leather upper. Last about 2 years.

I buy 2-4 pairs at a time. Basically all they have in stock in my size. I have 3 pair in the mail just now to replenish my inventory.

John Henry

Michael K said...

DBQ, my college roommate's mother was his father's fourth wife. He was much older but the only children he had (three boys) was with her. She was much younger, of course, but she told me that his idea of a honeymoon was a month camping in the woods. She said that, if she thought she could find the road, she woulds have run away but she ended up liking it. By 1940, she was national women's skeet shooting champion.

The old man was a real estate developer and my roommate said he had gone broke a couple of times but, fortunately, had ended up on top again. She was terrific and I kept in touch with her for years after.

MacMacConnell said...

stevew said...
"Not being one I am wondering if a Birdshooter has to walk a lot."

Yes, unless you shoot Quail in some parts of the South. In some parts of the South they have plantation hunting where the dog handler rides a horse, the shooters ride a carriage or ride horses.
Most upland game hunters walk behind a dog from sunup to sundown or till you bag your limit with a break for a packed lunch.
I've shot everything, but I prefer hunting pheasant and quail with my springer spaniel, by myself or with two other shooters. While I've hunted European style pheasant hunts with blockers and stalkers, I find it unsporting. Nothing is more enjoyable than hunting behind a dog trained to whistle and hand signals, it's actually more fun than shooting the birds.

Dust Bunny Queen said...

MacMacConnell said...Nothing is more enjoyable than hunting behind a dog trained to whistle and hand signals, it's actually more fun than shooting the birds.

Yes!! Hunting with your (well trained) dogs is a great experience.

With our dogs we used hand signals and non verbal commands. It is amazing during the field trial events to see the dogs doing blind retrieves. Such smart and enthusiastic dogs!!

Cattle/herding dogs are also amazing. We never had those types of dogs, but they are such fun to watch while they are working. A good "cattle/sheep" dog doesn't even need the handler once they get the rules of the "job".

Ignorance is Bliss said...

After we lost our son to suicide, my wife took up hiking. She hiked all of New Hampshire's 4000 footers, plus Katahdin, some in Yellowstone and Glacier, and a bunch in the Seattle area. She would love to find the time to do th AT.

tim in vermont said...

Big Two Hearted River is a great story about a WWI vet who takes to the wilderness with a heavy backpack and a fly rod to shake off the war.

The movie A Walk in the Woods is better than the book.

Meade said...

Beware of all enterprises that require new $600 Birdshooter boots.

tim in vermont said...

I love how people bash Thoreau. He said himself in Walden, and you could have bailed in the first chapter when he said this: Perhaps these pages are more particularly addressed to poor students.Note As for the rest of my readers, they will accept such portions as apply to them. I trust that none will stretch the seams in putting on the coat, for it may do good serviceNote to him whom it fits.

Thoreau’s The Maine Woods and A Week on the Concord and Merrimack Rivers were way better than anything Bryson ever wrote. If you really want some great wilderness writing, to read about a now mostly gone America, try William O Douglas’s "My Wilderness" books. My Wilderness: East to Katahdin really sticks out in my memory. It’s great reading when winter keeps you inside dreaming about summer.

Joe Smith said...

$600 boots...now that's white privilege...

rcocean said...

17 miles a day is a good clip, but then the man was a relatively young Marine. I'll hike the AP Trail, when they get rid of flies, mosquitoes and rain.

As for Bryson, Althouse's liking for him has always been puzzling, I don't have much love for a man who "Scores off" small town waitresses and clerk. Its not only tacky, its fake. I sincerely doubt all those snarky remarks and comebacks were made real-time.

tim in vermont said...

$600 custom fit boots make no sense to people who can buy shoes that fit them well off the shelf. I can’t, so the price seems pretty reasonable. You can go to NYC and get custom made alligator shoes for $2,900 if you like or plain old custom oxfords for $400. It’s right in line and I am happy that American craftsman can get the work.

tim in vermont said...

"As for Bryson, Althouse's liking for him has always been puzzling, “

It’s his voice.

Rusty said...

Meade. I think they were 200 when I bought mine. Pricey for an apprentice. Soft and very comfortable, but you can't put on the miles with them.

Narr said...

I like Bryson just fine.

Theroux's Deep South, Naipaul's A Turn In the South, and some of Raban's Hunting Mister Heartbreak all offer interesting views of the Latest South. Naipaul's a bit old but worth a read.

Narr
I got nothing on life outdoors.

Jeff said...

Good mention of Raban. His "Old Glory" -- about going down the length of the Mississippi in a 23-foot Chriscraft -- is my favorite travel book of all time.

Narr said...

Yes, Old Glory too--I'm surprised I forgot to mention it.

He wisely switches to being a passenger below Memphis, IIRC.

Narr
Good reading, always

gilbar said...

rcocean said...
As for Bryson, Althouse's liking for him has always been puzzling, I don't have much love for a man who "Scores off" small town waitresses and clerk. Its not only tacky, its fake.


The thing to understand about Bryson is: he's from Des Moines
In fact, he's from WEST Des Moines
and, his father worked for the Des Moines Register

In other words; He Is COMPLETE Scum. Seriously, Des Moines is the pits... Algona it is NOT!

rehajm said...

You hanging i there Bliss? Good to see you post...

MadisonMan said...

Ordering Russell Mocs looks to be quite an ordeal. Probably easier to drive to Berlin.

Rusty said...

MadisonMan said...
"Ordering Russell Mocs looks to be quite an ordeal. Probably easier to drive to Berlin."
Just go to Cabelas or get a good pair of Danners, or Timberline, or even Sketchers.
I've got a pair of insulated, waterproof Cabela all synthetic boots that have gone 6 seasons and are holding up quite well. What's more their light.

mikee said...

I see your AT moral/mental humblebragging and raise you the PCT, the Pacific Crest Trail, which produces inordinate, lifelong, self-satisfaction in those who complete it, and wild boastfulness in those who spend even a few days hiking along it. At least in my family. And a week in the wilderness of Montana hiking deer trails has provided four decades of unstoppable party anecdotes by my sister in law. Maybe going outside while good for your soul and body inspires an elitist mentality in these days of internet surfing.