July 12, 2023

"Kramer’s old uniform—camp-collar shirts in colorfully printed silk or rayon, sack pants that pull up a little short at the ankle to reveal white socks, clunky-soled shoes, a thin gold chain..."

"... is new again. This summer, the stylish young men I’ve seen around New York have continued their rejection of the once-inescapable skinny pants and check shirts in favor of something a little looser and decidedly more louche."


"Years of stretch fabrics that really needed the stretch have given way to breezy textiles and retro short-sleeved knits with a natural slouch, idiosyncratic prints, a lot more color, and maybe a little bit of embroidery. There are fewer sneakers and more loafers. And then there are all those camp collars.... Tired of the sameness and omnipresence of new clothes and nostalgic for a past that many of them don’t remember, young people have plunged themselves into thrifting and vintage resale, hunting for weird or interesting things from the ’90s and early 2000s."

Sounds like a repeat of the hippie movement.

Anyway, I like that word "louche." It's from French, where it means squinting. Squinting! How did a word that meant squinting travel into English and end up meaning whatever it is "louche" is supposed to mean?  Well, according to the OED, in English it means "Oblique, not straightforward. Also, dubious, shifty, disreputable." The oldest appearance in English is from 1819:
1819    Lady Morgan in  Passages from Autobiogr. (1859) 318   There is some~thing louche about him, which does not accord with the abandon of careless, intimate intercourse.

Lady Morgan was probably just using French. Thackeray used the same "something louche about him" format in 1850:

1850    W. M. Thackeray Pendennis II. xxxi. 312   There's something louche regarding him.

Some 20th century uses by very classy writers: 

1905    G. B. Shaw Lett. to Granville Barker (1956) 53   You could play Snobby. I want a slim, louche, servant-girl-bigamist, half-handsome sort of rascal.
1921    A. Huxley Crome Yellow xvii. 182   There had seemed to be something a little louche in the way she had suddenly found herself alone with Ivor.
1945    W. H. Auden Sea & Mirror ii. 46   A quick cold clasp now and then in some louche hovel.
1945    E. Waugh Brideshead Revisited 236   I knew of a louche little bar quite near here.
A quick cold clasp now and then in some louche hovel.... um, yes... but what will you wear? Kramercore?

29 comments:

RideSpaceMountain said...

"This summer, the stylish young men I’ve seen around New York..."

They'll do anything they can to avoid calling them gay.

Kate said...

Although I understood the gist of louche, I couldn't have given a detailed definition. Now it will forever be defined for me as Kramercore, which is descriptively perfect.

Quaestor said...

Hipster doofus, an apt description of Cosmo Kramer coined by a character within the show. One surmises Amanda Mull knows many hipster doofi, herself among them, but hardly everyone or even a substantial fraction of everyone, just of a thankfully scare genus of thoughtless conformists sardines packed in a small can, what John Podhertz has called the bizarrely naive quality of hermetic liberal provincialism.

Political Junkie said...

Summer of Newman

Ann Althouse said...

I liked the term "inescapable skinny pants." It made me think of Houdini.

cassandra lite said...

Should've gone back another decade or so. Men's clothes in the mid-to-late '80s reached the apex of tastefulness over fad. Unlike '80s hair.

Quaestor said...

Althouse writes, "Anyway, I like that word 'louche.'"

As an occasional enjoyer of absinthe, I'm familiar with louche as a verb, the action of water on the liquor that makes the clear greenish liquid transform into lovely, swirling opalescent clouds. And I've read the word as an adjective in literature, but my peek into the etymology doesn't quite jibe with squinting.

First off, Google Translate equates the French louche with English suspicious making the modern French usage a dead-ringer cognate with our usage. However, the word itself traces to Latin lusca, the feminine of luscus, meaning one-eyed. So how does that relate to its French descendant? A classics scholar could be consulted, but I'll venture a wild guestimate. Who might be one-eyed in the Roman world? Anyone, really, but an inordinate percentage of ruffians and hooligans could be expected to have an odd number of eyes among them, and there's the infamous Cyclops of the Odyssey -- pirates and monsters, they're all sort of louche, aren't they?

AMDG said...

Anything is better than a skinny royal blue suit with pants to the ankles and orange shoes.



Paddy O said...

I'm jumping ahead and ordering an urban sumbrero

Paddy O said...

The ultimate Krameria:
https://youtu.be/yRIVzA27lA0

Ice Nine said...

Did anyone know what a "camp collar" (shirt) was without looking it up?

I just discovered that I've been wearing them all my life!

Wilbur said...

I thought Kramer (or the actor who portrayed him) was not to mentioned anymore, that he was persona non grata, cancelled, finis, sent to the gulag.

When was he rehabilitated?

Quaestor said...

It made me think of Houdini.

All sorts of lore swirl around the figure of Harry Houdini, and many people even today repeat that lore as established facts 98 years after his passing. Inescapable. Nothing is what it seems when it comes to magic. Besides being the paradigm of theatrical illusionists, Erich Weisz was perhaps the last example of an American literary phenomenon, a living person presented as a fictional character.

The Wild West of the post-Civil War era spawned a market for penny-dreadful tracts and novelettes featuring real people such as James Butler Hickok and William Frederick Cody engaged in absurd, violent, and usually made-up heroics against road agents, redskins, and oily card sharps, with the typical rescue of the comely rancher's daughter as a finale. Cody happily endorsed the manure written about him because it made him a fortune as Buffalo Bill. However, "Wild Bill" was murdered by an idiot who was strongly influenced by such scribblings. The last of that disreputable form was perhaps the adventures of Harry Houdini, leader of the Pinkerton bunko squad dedicated to the exposure and prosecution of spiritualists, seers, and necromancers, evil fraudsters all on the hunt for the wealthy and gullible widows seeking solace as chronicled in the crusading Police Gazette. Of course, those articles were wholly fictional and very lucrative compared to the actual investment of Houidini's time, more or less none. In fact, Houdini did crusade against spiritualists and mediums but mostly in the press and by demonstrating their methods of trickery and illusion to panels of scientists and law enforcement officials, much as the late Jame Randi has done.

farmgirl said...

My oldest daughter bagged up so many clothes and brought them up for me &her 2sisters to try and then get rid of. She’s got great taste- &can afford the good things.

I picked out a few dress blouses and some pants. I tell you- wearing those beautiful blouses feels like skinny dipping!! Weightless. Like liquid.

I never could decide on anything-
don’t get me started on my damned hair :0/

gspencer said...

Kramer's stuff is good on TV.

But not on me.

Robert Cook said...

Well, that's one thing (of many) about New York, just because one is fashionable doesn't mean one is gay.

Another old lawyer said...

"Watch another TV sitcom." - borrowed and adapted from critics of people who use Harry Potter references incessantly and seemingly exclusively.

Free Manure While You Wait! said...

"I liked the term "inescapable skinny pants." It made me think of Houdini."

Skinny jeans were created as a way to further emasculate men.

Humperdink said...

Urkel did it first.

~ Gordon Pasha said...

"Style is forever, fashion is apple sauce." Mortimer Levitt, The Custom Look

Anthony said...

Ice Nine said...
Did anyone know what a "camp collar" (shirt) was without looking it up?


No.

Now I feel like I should switch to wearing those instead of t-shirts here in AZ and fancy myself all Hemmingway-esque. Younger Hemmingway. Not the really fat bearded one.

Narr said...

I didn't know 'camp-collar' either, and also thought that all mention of Kramer/Richards in the MSM was streng verboten. Surely there was some ritual distancing in the piece?

I did know 'louche,' and have used it here, but I'm not an Atlantic scribbler . . .



The Cracker Emcee Refulgent said...

"Well, that's one thing (of many) about New York, just because one is fashionable doesn't mean one is gay."

"It doesn't help."

-George

MacMacConnell said...

Humperdink said...
"Urkel did it first."

Beaver and his brother Wally did it first.

AndrewV said...

Next thing you're going to tell me is that puffy pirate shirts will finally be the fashion.

Quaestor said...

Gay is just a detail, Robert Cook. Fashionable means one has far more money than brains or character.

RideSpaceMountain said...

"Fashionable means one has far more money than brains or character."

Sometimes not even money. Believe it or not, in 17th and 18th century Europe some men frequently went into great debt so they look as homosexual as possible.

Now is the winter of our discontent made glorious summer by this son of New York said...

The first time I saw the word “louche,” was to describe Bill Clinton. His picture should be next to the word in the dictionary.

Saint Croix said...

Esquire covered this trend five years ago so my conclusion there is that The Atlantic is not really a fashion mag.

Anyway, apparently the Prada spring line in 2018 was a direct rip off of Kramer. Photos don't lie!