August 13, 2025

"Skeptics doubted that diners would pay hundreds of dollars for vegetables and fruit, no matter how artfully prepared."

"Others dismissed it as another high-end stunt from a chef who had taken the restaurant through a series of different menus since he took over in 2006, including one that required waiters to perform card tricks.... The meat-free menu met with mixed reviews. Although the restaurant retained the three stars that Michelin first awarded it in 2012, other critics were not as impressed. Pete Wells, then The Times’s restaurant critic, described vegetable dishes that... 'are so obviously standing in for meat or fish... that you almost feel sorry for them.'"

From "Meat Is Back at Eleven Madison Park, After 4 Vegan Years/The Manhattan restaurant drew global praise and skepticism with its climate-minded, all-plant menu. Now its chef wants to be more welcoming — and popular" (NYT).

"The restaurant has had varying levels of financial success since introducing the vegan menu.... Bookings for private events, an essential stream of income, have been particularly sparse. 'It’s hard to get 30 people for a corporate dinner to come to a plant-based restaurant'...."

Maybe there's just no way to be expensive and vegan. Pick one. It is, apparently, too much of a strain to shore up the customer's delusion that nonmeat items are very, very posh. We're told there was "tonburi, the seeds some call land caviar."

25 comments:

Aggie said...

"...Now its chef wants to be more welcoming — and popular" (NYT)."

That's code, for 'profitable'.

Greg The Class Traitor said...

We're told there was "tonburi, the seeds some call land caviar."

"That some call" is a guarantee that the claim is bullshit

tim maguire said...

It's not so much the paying hundreds of dollars for a bowl of vegetables as the paying hundreds of dollars for a bowl of vegetables and then going down the street to pay another $5 for a slice of pizza because you're still hungry.

Curious George said...

"Maybe there's just no way to be expensive and vegan."

Free hooker with every meal.

Enigma said...

The primal human survival diet includes a mix of protein, carbohydrates, and fats. Meats have a ton of protein and fat, and like Brawndo, it's what bodies crave. Fruit and veggies are carbs, and you'd die if that's all you ate. Grains, nuts, and beans fall in the middle, but would you pay $200 for a plate of rice and lentils topped with almonds and avocados?

Vegans start from ideology rather than biology. They struggle mightily to find tasty and satisfying proteins. Not. gonna. eat. even. eggs. or. cheese! As with drinking decaf coffee, paying for a luxury vegan meal is a primal "why bother" situation.

gilbar said...

i like that they WEREN'T JUST veggie.. they went full vegan!
if you're cooking, and you don't use eggs or dairy..
what are you cooking? stir fried bok choy and rice?

mccullough said...

Revealed preference

PM said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
loudogblog said...

If you don't like the resturant, don't go. I think that it's weird that some people feel the need to constantly criticise other people for not doing things exactly the way that they would.

I think that the public would be much better served with a basic restaurant review that wasn't filled with other people's opinions.

gilbar said...

My friend Mike famously declared back in the '80's..
that if Meat is Murder.. Salad is Slaughter!
Stop Slaughtering innocent plants!

Jim Gust said...

Too many rich people can't figure out what to do with their money.

john mosby said...

‘Land caviar’ is what Bill Clinton serves his interns.

RR
JSM

Deep State Reformer said...

Ah the vagaries of rich NYC swells. This place is probably highly rated on the SWPL index too.

ChrisC said...

There is a vegetarian restaurant in San Francisco called Greens. I first went there in the early 80's. It's the only good vegetarian restaurant food I have ever had. The secret was that with ample cheese, butter, and sauces you almost forgot it was vegetarian. The house made bread and butter alone were almost worth a visit. And, it wasn't that expensive and had a fabulous view of the Bay from floor to ceiling windows. So, it can be done.

Blair said...

Looks like meat's back on the menu, boys...

(low hanging fruit I know, but somebody had to do it)

tommyesq said...

I never understood the idea of being vegan but then trying to dress up my vegetables as "meat." Maybe that is why Beyond Burgers is on the verge of bankruptcy.

Iman said...

Speaking of food, How come the Palestinians are always running out of food and water, but never out of rockets and bullets?

FullMoon said...

It's the experience, not the food.

And, another win for Trump, as "climate change" is apparently no longer a concern.

Enigma said...

With likely the most ideological and plain false anti-meat song lyrics of all time, I offer you The Smiths "Meat is Murder" for dinner:

Heifer whines could be human cries
Closer comes the screaming knife
This beautiful creature must die
This beautiful creature must die
A death for no reason
And death for no reason is murder

And the flesh you so fancifully fry
Is not succulent, tasty or kind
It's death for no reason
And death for no reason is murder
And the calf that you carve with a smile
It is murder
And the turkey you festively slice
It is murder
Do you know how animals die?

Kitchen aromas aren't very homely
It's not comforting, cheery or kind
It's sizzling blood and the unholy stench of murder
It's not natural, normal or kind
The flesh you so fancifully fry
The meat in your mouth
As you savour the flavour of murder

No, no, no, it is murder
No, no, no, it is murder
And who hears when animals cry?

BUMBLE BEE said...

I'd like to take this opportunity for a shout out for a hero of my youth... Graham Kerr, The Galloping Gourmet!
I raise my glass. of buttermilk, in a toast.

John henry said...

Tim,

A friend of mine and his wife took son and I to le cirque in Las Vegas.

Food was great but the was damned little of it.

Especially for $150 or so per person (2009)

We went to Mcdonalds on our way back to our hotel.

John Henry

Blair said...

"tommyesq said...
I never understood the idea of being vegan but then trying to dress up my vegetables as "meat." Maybe that is why Beyond Burgers is on the verge of bankruptcy."


I do seasonal vegan fasts for religious reasons. While I used to eat fake meat quite frequently, I've gone off it lately during fasting periods. While initially it was nice to eat something that approximated meat, I've found that, not only does eating approximated meat just make you miss real meat all the more, but the taste itself didn't justify the expense, when I was going to be equally fulfilled eating much more natural tasting kidney beans instead. I suspect this is a real issue with these products: Almost meat is still not meat, and legumes are more authentic in terms of taste.

Blair said...

"I offer you The Smiths "Meat is Murder" for dinner:"

The Smiths are a brilliant band, but this is probably their worst song. It's helpfully the last song on that otherwise brilliant album, so therefore easily skipped, but occasionally I will do an ironic melodramatic singalong to it.

Enigma said...

@ChrisC: "There is a vegetarian restaurant in San Francisco called Greens."

I ate there once, and it isn't bad for the genre. The reasonable prices follow from the sincere "share and live in peace" hippies in SF. It has a great location.

There's a famous vegetarian restaurant in Zurich, Switzerland named Hiltl. It was founded in 1898 and could be the progenitor many later European-derived vegetarian movements and restaurants for all I know. I ate there. Butter and dairy are served, and some of the menu was derived from Indian food. It was light and I was hungry afterwards.

Kyoto, Japan has tofu-only restaurants that do everything from soup to "steaks" to custard desserts. It was probably the most filling of the vegetarian restaurants I've tried, but rather narrow and repetitive.

Dr. Unknowable said...

"It's not so much the paying hundreds of dollars for a bowl of vegetables as the paying hundreds of dollars for a bowl of vegetables and then going down the street to pay another $5 for a slice of pizza because you're still hungry."

Ha! When I was a grad student back in the Bronze Age I got invited once or twice to go to dinner with a seminar speaker. Once we went to a famous vegetarian restaurant called "Moosewood" (still there in Ithaca, apparently). I remember the enormous plates and tiny portions. After dinner, I headed straight for McDonalds.

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