Insulting the chef, big time, it's Pete Wells in the NYT, knocking the fancy-ass restaurant Per Se off its 4-stars.
Don't miss the slide show. Keep in mind that the restaurant folk posed for these NYT photographs with no idea what was going to be in the text. It lends an intriguing subtlety to their smarmy smiles. The buttery softness, served cold, is rubbery and and hilariously flavorless.