Quoted in "French wine industry is withering on the vine as drinkers go dry/A collapse in demand — particularly for the heavy reds produced across southern France — coupled with climate change means the end of a way of life for many" (London Times).
Boueilh adds: "France was the land of the good life where people spent a lot of time drinking and eating. But today society is changing. People may have a drink in a bar but they don’t open a bottle of wine when they sit down to eat at the table."
Is it necessarily a loss in devotion to "the good life" or did people change their conception of the good? But he didn't say "good," did he? He would have said "douceur": "« La France était le pays de la douceur de vivre, celui où l’on prenait son temps pour manger et boire ensemble autour d’une table. »
There might be other ways of being "good," but are there other ways of being "sweet"? And more important, there is a tradition of experiencing the sweetness in a particular way, with a bottle of wine on the table at meals.
Ah! That's for France to decide! Boueilh represents the wine industry. Of course, he's going to dramatize the centrality of wine. If I buy into that, I'm just an American accepting the most easily available stereotype.
That is, it's the stuff that belongs in the new Dictionary of Received Ideas: The French: They think the good life is sitting around drinking wine all day.
ADDED: I wanted more depth of meaning for the word "douceur," and got excellent help from Grok. I am told that "douceur" is much more complex than the English “sweetness,” as explained by this chart:

I am told the world is "so emotionally charged for the French" because:
- It is the opposite of violence, brusquerie, vitesse, stress, âpreté — everything modern life is accused of bringing.
- It contains a nostalgic, almost maternal dimension: the douceur of childhood, of grandmother’s hands, of the light in the kitchen at 5 p.m. in winter.
- It is deeply tied to the body and the senses, never purely intellectual. You feel douceur on your skin, in your throat, in the air you breathe.
- Crucially, it almost always implies slowness. Something that is doux takes its time.
Marcel Proust (Du côté de chez Swann):
« …la douceur d’une journée d’hiver où l’on reste auprès du feu »
→ Here douceur = softness + mildness + serene pleasure all at once.
Françoise Sagan:
« J’aime la douceur des matins trop courts »
→ A mixture of tenderness, mild climate, and melancholy joy.
1960s–70s slogan of the Loire Valley tourist board:
« La douceur de vivre »
→ Sold an entire region on the promise that life there is gentler, warmer, slower, more pleasurable.
Contemporary usage (2024–2025) in newspapers when speaking about the wine crisis:
« On est en train de perdre la douceur de vivre à la française »
→ They do not mean France is becoming less gourmet; they mean it is becoming harsher, faster, more anxious, less gentle.
I am told:
"When an older Frenchman says « On a perdu la douceur », he is not just saying life is less tasty or less fun. He is saying: 'Everything now feels sharper, colder, louder, more brutal; we have lost the gentle, warm, protective envelope that used to wrap daily existence.' That is why the word hurts so much when it is felt to be disappearing. It is not a luxury. For many French people, it is almost a human right."

४२ टिप्पण्या:
"[C]coupled with climate change . . ."
But of course!
Climate change, another entry in the Dictionary of Received Ideas, perhaps?
Guessing the arrival of a lot of immigrants who don’t drink may be a factor.
“Global Warming” has not reduced the acreage of wine grapes worldwide. But the French who enjoyed a long time as the only premium wine growing country until the big Paris Tasting of 1975, and since it has been a long glide from the top. California wines were better and cheaper for good quality. South America and Australia surged to fill the “drinkable” market and now China is growing into a huge producer of table wines.
Between the stiff competition, inflexible domain and production rules in France and Spain and Italy, the entire EU wine industry has undergone changes that further hamper profitability. I’m wondering if the word “tariff” makes an appearance in the story once they get past the obligatory climate nonsense.
And it’s very true that alcohol in general enjoys reduced demand among people younger than our average age on the Althouse blog. Only niche markets are growing as overall consumption declines. My prediction is that some awesome real estate in southern France is going to be on the market soon.
"Climate change, another entry in the Dictionary of Received Ideas, perhaps?"
You have to put it in the form of a dictionary entry, beginning with a word (or phrase) and followed by a definition that constitutes a "received idea," that is the thing unthinking people reflexively say upon hearing that word.
And try to have the satirical edge that Flaubert used.
So if you want to use "climate change" as the entry, you could write: Half the United States will be under water in 30 years.
Something like that.
Malevolence and denigration are the two chief characteristics of the French mind.
Diabetes is another factor. There really has been a plague of this.
Just this morning I learned there is such a thing as a THC drink so now I'm wondering how much of all this media blather about the death of alcohol is being pushed by big cannabis.
Can modern French people even drink wine?
i thought it was in the same class as pork, or marrying someone you AREN'T closely related to?
what is the replacement rate for wine drinking females in France?
is it as high as ONE child per wine drinking mom?
One of Scott Adams’ “persuasion” messages: “Alcohol is poison.” It’s sinking in. Adams isn’t the only one saying this. I loved drinking when I was young and had a beautiful woman to drink with. In my mid-50s, I literally became allergic to alcohol: rosacea. The legalization of pot has also led to an abandonment of alcohol.
At least in Québec it also means "slow(ly)" as in "Prends ça doucement.", which has a different sense than "lentement" [also 'slowly'], which relates more specifically to space and time.
Jumping to Greek, "douce(ment)" is more closely connected to Kairos time -- think of "We had a good time." for some sense of it -- than to mere Kronos. It's really all about an environment anchored with/by people [and a situation] who are "sympathiques / simpáticos", a word for which we have no equivalent in English ... because most of us are too bloody superficial. I'm not truly fluent in Norwegian, but a close equivalent to the French sense would be hygge(lig), but yet again we don't have it in English.
I remember the wonderful social connctedness of our 3-day farm crop improvement meetings back in the '80s ... always on somebody's farm. Sleep in the barn, or anywhere soft. Several kids conceived from a literal roll in the hay. The wine came out by 08:30, for the breakfast of last night's spit-roasted pig, or lamb. Friendly competition about whose homemade sausage was best.
And so on, mixed with market competitors helping each other make a better job of weed control, or growing a crop with which they struggled. By lunch the kids over 10 were sipping a bit of wine with their meals, and some toddlers getting a tiny taste.
What we had was true COMMUNITY, and that is what's being mourned all across rural and small-town France.
Declining wine consumption is a **symptom** of the loss ot true community and its social "douceur". It happened in Québec as well, and we have lost something importantly human.
I really miss drinking wine. Iced cold Apple juice makes a lovely psychological substitute. Also apple cider. Funny how grape juice doesn't appeal.
Okay then . . .
"Climate change" -- All-purpose non-refutable explanation for every deviation between the ideal natural environment and the actual natural variable conditions encountered, anywhere in the world. Proof of causation not required.
-- Dictionary of Received Ideas
It's not climate change. Farmers can and will react to small changes in the climate. They have in wine countries around the world for eons.
But the world is drinking less. And they are drinking less wine. And the wine industry is guilty of having years of overpricing itself to the point of ridiculousness over the last couple of decades. And now much of the industry is sitting at a price level that people, who aren't drinking as much of it, are looking at and refusing to pay. And the younger generations? They know very little about the world of fine dining and fine wines. And even more- they could care less about all of that. They have their own world, their own interests (chocolate martinis?) and frankly, it appears as though the interest in those fine dining/fine wine days were a thing of past civilizations, perhaps ending with us. Boomers.
This is not just happening in France. Here in the US, Napa and Sonoma are in trouble. So many vineyards producing too many tons of grapes. So many wineries offering so many 'must have' bottles at ridiculous prices. Add in a large number of young tech billionaires who were at the forefront of paying too much for wineries of their own and wines to collect pressure to keep raising the prices kept going up. And the entire face of Napa and Sonoma changed rapidly from farm country to exclusive destination.
I've been a wine collector for years. And I am cutting way back. Pricing is nuts. I simply cannot rationalize it any longer. I'm going back to heroin.
“I'm going back to heroin.“
LOL
Grok produced a chart for me that shows the decline of drinking from 1990 to 2025:
"https://alwaysmerryandbright.wordpress.com/2025/12/06/scott-adams-alcohol-is-poison/"
So 'perdre la douceur' is French for 'enshittification.' C, JSM
The French should have imported millions of people who drink.
Mike (MJB Wolf) said...
"South America and Australia surged to fill the “drinkable” market..."
The Argentines took a dark red grape that the French used for coloration in blends, cultivated it on volcano soil on the lee side of the Andes, and produced Malbec.
Trenet gets some attention in Alan Riding's "And the Show Went On" -- he was a huge star in 1940's France who managed in 1940-44 to survive accusations of being Jewish (he wasn't, the charge being that his name is an anagram of Netter, supposedly a common Jewish one), and the reality of being gay.
"Collaborated" with the Germans to the extent of giving concerts for French PoWs and workers in Germany, like Chevalier and Piaf, and performing with Germans in the audience in France (like almost everyone else in showbiz). Laid low in the US for a few years after Liberation, then went back home to more success.
Wrote "Douce France" and also "La mer" which Bobby Darrin made a hit in America.
We just got back from South Africa and the Pinotage is amazing. Highly recommend.
Thinking the key to "La Dolce Vita " exists at the bottom of a bottle of Burgundy is literally and figuratively the dead end of a pipe dream.
Jean Barlycorn must die, I guess.
Maybe the French instead of butting into the Ukraine-Russia war and spending tons of money around the world trying to a super-power should take minding their own affairs.
The French elite have "invade the world, invite the world" syndrome even worse than the USA. They've never gotten over their loss on dominance in Europe or losing their Empire.
I wonder if the massive immigration of muslims, asians, and africans has something to to with the decline in Red wine consumption. Somehow, I don't imagine either of those groups drinking much Côte-Rôtie
Speaking of Chevalier. Josephine Baker, French dancer and singer, falsely accused Chevalier of being a Nazi sympathizer and collaborator during WW II. She had almost no evidence. It tooks Chevalier years to get his reputation back. Amazing since Chevalier had helped Baker get started in Show Biz.
Chez, Chez, le femme.
The French had the good life. Then they decided it was clever to allow into their country who (1) strictly adhere to a religion that forbids alcoholic beverages, and (2) uses violence (including grenade launchers and AK-47s) and threats of violence to enforce their religious rules on everyone else.
Robert Marshall said...
"[C]coupled with climate change . . ."
But of course!
And Trump! Where does he fit in?
Look at the bottom axis of the chart at S.T.'s link. That's the quality of work we are getting from A.I. If we count on this tech for anything important, there are going to be a lot of regrets.
You can take any bad thing that happens and blame it on climate change or Trump and millions will take you seriously and repeat your careful analysis. In fact, it's mandatory.
bagoh20 said...
"Look at the bottom axis of the chart at S.T.'s link."
Apparently the decline in boozing was already well underway by AD339.
Dollar for dollar ... French Bordeaux wines are still by far the best in the world. I can't speak to the many other regions and varieties but I believe it also holds true.
I learned early on from a French colleague that when speaking with a native French person who may interpret your good pronunciation as implying high fluency, such that they start reeling off conversation at a high speed, to politely interrupt and say “doucement, s’il vous plait” to get them to slows down.
Oh, and I’m a huge Trenet fan, and I second the comment on the superiority of French Bordeaux wines.
"Ain't but three things in this world that's worth a solitary dime
But old dogs and children and watermelon wine"
Tom T. Hall
I doubt it was immigration that made the French drop the sweet life. Was it the pace of modern life? Maybe not, since their vacations are long and their work weeks are short, but one has to avoid the old stereotypes and at least appear to be modern and business-like.
Arthur Kinley said...
“Dollar for dollar ... French Bordeaux wines are still by far the best in the world.”
Ditto. You can still get a darned good bottle of red Bordeaux for 10 or 12 bucks. Best cheap table wine on earth. It’s a miracle.
I shall redouble my efforts to save their industry.
"He would like to return to what he views as the better times of the 1970s, when French governments fixed a minimum wine price to keep vineyards afloat.
"What we need is more regulation,” he said."
Apprends à coder.
Cultural shifts aside, from what I've been told, the industrialization of the wine industry has transformed the product and made huge improvements to quality, consistency, and flavor. The integration of technology advances have taken what was once secret knowledge and made process-controlled excellence, a standard.
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