२१ फेब्रुवारी, २०२२

"But as millions of jobs that require steel-toed boots and well-built overalls have moved overseas, younger workers are largely averse to traditional trades, leaving these types of jobs unfilled."

"Carhartt, meanwhile, has adapted to these new dynamics. Its stores often pop up in urban and suburban areas. Just as Patagonia sells rock-climbing jackets to bankers, Carhartt now sells logging pants to baristas. And while these new customers endure jokes and memes mocking their clean-cut personas, the politics of wearing (or not wearing) Carhartt seem to be more muddled. Heated dialogue recently erupted after the company decided to enforce President Biden’s vaccine mandate despite a Supreme Court ruling that it was unconstitutional. The move spurred conservative talk of a boycott, while arousing liberal defenders. Somehow, though, Carhartt has succeeded in appealing to its blue-collar emblems, like Sarah Palin, while appealing to new fans, like Barack Obama.... It may be true that the brand’s newfound popularity in coastal cities, like New York, where I live now, is a form of cultural appropriation, one that surely sands down the struggles of blue-collar life. But the proliferation of these clothes among new types of workers may also reflect the country’s growing sense of precarity, and also solidarity, around labor. I still feel a twinge of impostor syndrome in Carhartt garments, a sentiment echoed by others I spoke to. But I now see the clothes as representative of where I grew up, my friends and my hard, if often nonphysical, work."

From "When the Heart Belongs to Carhartt/A beloved store in a small hometown closes, but the residents still need their work wear" by Jasper Craven (NYT).

६० टिप्पण्या:

Owen म्हणाले...

“Precarity”?

Found in Webster’s right next to “precious.”

iowan2 म्हणाले...

I wore jeans because that's what growing up on the farm needed. It was well into the 70's before the "in crowd" appropriated jeans.

But today I have moved past Carhartt. I'm lucky to have a Duluth Trading in my shopping area. (Only one in Iowa. Chicago, and Omaha next closest). Their pants are well designed, with fire hose flex material that is more comfortable than the stiff heavy material of most work pants. All their stuff has great utility, and the store is fun to shop. old candy, beard care products, dog products and a huge selection of ladies cloths from underwear, to mountain climbing gear.

Jefferson's Revenge म्हणाले...

This sentence should win an award as the most pretentious sentence ever- “But I now see the clothes as representative of where I grew up, my friends and my hard, if often nonphysical, work."

Howard म्हणाले...

The new Lumbersexual.

MayBee म्हणाले...

I agree we need more people willing to take on physical labor and skilled trades jobs.

But he's overthinking the rest. I live in an area with a lot of blue collar workers. I've lived in Michigan, the home of Carhartt, for a lot of my life. And nobody who wears it for work cares if you wear it for fashion. People have been doing that for a long time, even if not in the coastal areas. It isn't cultural appropriation, because that doesn't really exist. BUT this author gives away the fact that he looks at physical laborers as "the other" by saying it. He would like people to know he and his friends wear it for fashion, and he isn't like the people who wear it for warmth while they repair downed power lines. He's a cool, trendy wearer. Noted.

Jaq म्हणाले...

"But as millions of jobs that require steel-toed boots and well-built overalls have moved overseas,"

Interesting passive construction there.

"and also solidarity, around labor."

As long as they don't get too uppity.

Marek म्हणाले...

Last time I came back to Wisconsin to visit family my wife and I stocked up on Carhardt and Dickies gear from Farm & Fleet. I live near a trendy Carhardt store where it costs much more for less quality.

I can confirm that the doorman can also tell the difference between what I had vs what they sold there.

If you want the stuff that lasts a long time, go to Farm & Fleet. (I can't confirm Fleet Farm) If you want to look trendy, you still have to spend more.

typingtalker म्हणाले...

Almost 60 years late to the style game that was started by "Levis".

There was a time when school students were sent home if they wore the blue denim work pants to class.

boatbuilder म्हणाले...

"I'm a lumberjack and I'm OK..."

Richard म्हणाले...

You don't have to live too far out of town, nor have a gigantic lot for some of your yard work to cross Paul Bunyan with Farmer Jones, if only maybe ten hours a week.
Which is my situation and that of my neighbors. To the extent I care enough to look, I'v e never seen WORK clothes. It's old jeans and old jackets, sometimes left over military stuff.
Maybe Carhartt stuff is too expensive to get messed up actually working in it.

Mid-Life Lawyer म्हणाले...

I am either unable or unwilling to buy into "cultural appropriation" as a valid complaint. It is an annoying offspring of identity politics. I'm still going to warmly wear my Carhardt toboggan on the very coldest of days even though I will probably just be running or walking and not lumberjacking or farming. My hardt belongs to Carhardt, as well.

Jaq म्हणाले...

I like Carhartt because the pants fit good, and are well made. I like the gloves too. I buy them at Tractor Supply. I am pretty sure that the working people who wear them would have a big laugh at the idea of being "culturally appropriated" but in Vermont, what sets the working people apart is their accent, not their clothes. It's some kind of "High Tide" or "Hoy Toyed," I couldn't possibly represent it here as written dialect, and for all the years I have spent in Vermont, I can't imitate it convincingly. When they want, they really lay it on thick talking to each other, like Caribbean Islanders and their patois.

This guy does it pretty well, but I think he mixes in a little Maine that I don't here in my part of Vermont, anyway.

iowan2 म्हणाले...

There was a time when school students were sent home if they wore the blue denim work pants to class.

True. Although our community were genetically rule followers, but yes. My brothers and I would come in from morning chores and switch into "dress pants" and a collared shirt. (t-shirts were worn under a collared shirt), then of course the reverse in the afternoon.
Also, this was class stratification. The rich wore new clothes, next step down, were well cared for hand me downs. Bu t no visible mending scars. Then the home made and mended, but never dirty. A very few with bad family situations, were scruffy, but not teased. Mom would do everything in her power to hit the no visible mending scars, but patched knees allowed in an emergency.(you cant keep knees in boys pants) That exception would happen in emergencies.

tim maguire म्हणाले...

“impostor syndrome”? Idiot.

I have a Carhartt coat because it’s warm, durable, and reasonably priced. It has nice touches like a double zipper that lets me unzip from the bottom or the top so I can sit down without it riding up on me. It's not super stylish, but it is super practical. The idea that I should feel ashamed because I’ll never wear it with a hardhat is stupid.

Gerda Sprinchorn म्हणाले...

farmgirl should weigh in on this.

BTW, how are the cows? Do you need to brush the snow off them in the morning like you do with a car? Is there a special snow brush for cows? (I assume cows don't actually need people to brush the snow off them, but I'm going to imagine that they do because I want to.)

narciso म्हणाले...

Carhatts showed its true colors with the vaccine mandate, i remember when it was the basis for one of those ridiculous ethics against palin

Owen म्हणाले...

I am reading Isabel Wilkerson's almost-unreadable "Caste: The Origins Of Our Discontents" and I now understand that the NYT is the Bible, the Q'ran, the golden tablets, of the practitioners of this religion. It's all about signaling their privilege, and clothing is a big part of the apparatus of signaling. It is to be worn ironically. Life is to be approached ironically. The status anxiety --"don't be a dork!"-- starts in middle school if not earlier. And most of them remain psychologically stuck in middle school.

Mr. Forward म्हणाले...

I got a shirt from Duluth Trading Company that's so tough it beats itself up in the washing machine.

CWJ म्हणाले...

Urban Cowboy redux.

Written by Jasper Craven. The name alone made it worth reading the post.

Danno म्हणाले...

There is nothing finer than the hearing the lament of libtards.

Temujin म्हणाले...

Note to the NY Times: All jobs are going unfulfilled except:

>Government
>Tech (as long as we can keep importing people from Asian countries)
>Sports broadcasters (because there's an unlimited supply of ex-jocks, who may or may not be able to speak well, but that doesn't seem to matter)
>Journalists (because there's no shortage of woke people with degrees in gender studies)

You can't even get a coffee any more without waiting because they have no help. Restaurants literally have closed because they've tired of trying to staff their businesses. Hotels operate with half-staffs. Housing developments sit with land excavated and nothing being built because of lack of supplies and trades people. Its all around, in almost every field. As we noted around here yesterday, we're watching the slo-motion de-evolution of Western society. Things are shutting down, getting harder to operate, and our grads coming out have less useable knowledge and less inclination to work hard that previous generations had. And...there are fewer babies being born.

A future NY Times article might discuss the larger picture, but I doubt they see it at this time. But...Carhartt.

Ann Althouse म्हणाले...

I first noticed the word "precarity" in 2019 and did a long blogpost here.

Ann Althouse म्हणाले...

"I live near a trendy Carhardt store where it costs much more for less quality. I can confirm that the doorman can also tell the difference between what I had vs what they sold there."

Yes, we went in the SoHo Carhartt store when we were in NYC a few years ago and the salesman was quite open about how the stuff they sell is different. It's an application of the brand to a different line of things, with a very different clientele.

The normal Carhartt clothing is very thick and stiff. It doesn't seem very comfortable ... not that I wear it (though I do have an orange Carhartt cap that Meade brought home for me one time and I am wearing it now, as I often do when I'm working on the computer in front of bright windows, to shade my eyes).

NorthOfTheOneOhOne म्हणाले...

But I now see the clothes as representative of where I grew up, my friends and my hard, if often nonphysical, work.

You type 16 words, what do you get?
Another day older and deeper in debt
Non-religous deity, don't you call me 'cause I can't go
I owe my soul to the Carhartt store

Big Mike म्हणाले...

(though I do have an orange Carhartt cap that Meade brought home for me one time and I am wearing it now, as I often do when I'm working on the computer in front of bright windows, to shade my eyes)

They don’t have Next Day Blinds in Madison?

Bob Boyd म्हणाले...

I'm a dumb nail-pounder and devastatingly sexy in my Carhartts, but don't try this at home. The man makes the clothes.

Václav Patrik Šulik म्हणाले...

From David Burge (Iowahawk): "my culture is not your prom dress"

Sebastian म्हणाले...

"the company decided to enforce President Biden’s vaccine mandate"

At this point, what is the justification? Vaccines don't stop spread. Omicron is mild in any case. Healthy people have nothing to fear to begin with. Remaining unvaxxed may slightly increase personal risk for some vulnerable people and raise health care costs--but companies don't impose mandates for other activities and conditions that do the same.

You could sorta get a mandate for true inoculation. But now?

Václav Patrik Šulik म्हणाले...

I agree with you, Ann, Carhartt is stiff and needs a lot of working in. I like that they carry the big and tall stuff.

I love Murdock's - always one of my favorite things about going to Wyoming. You can get their stuff online, but it's not the same as shopping.

mikee म्हणाले...

Carhartt is one thing, LL Bean is another. Oh, for those days of sunshine and sweet youth, all preppied up in my Topsiders (sans socks, of course) khakis, lizard polo, and Ray Bans.

“I grow old … I grow old … I shall wear the bottoms of my trousers rolled.” Now I understand.

Robert Cook म्हणाले...

"...we're watching the slo-motion de-evolution of Western society. Things are shutting down, getting harder to operate, and our grads coming out have less useable knowledge and less inclination to work hard that previous generations had."

Tell it to your great-great-great-etc.- granpappy!

"And...there are fewer babies being born.

Which brings to mind an old joke:

"...two elderly women are at a Catskill mountain resort, and one of ‘em says, ‘Boy, the food at this place is really terrible.’ The other one says, ‘Yeah, I know; and such small portions.’”

Mike of Snoqualmie म्हणाले...

People keep misspelling "cultural appreciation" as "cultural appropriation." You'd think they'd have dictionaries! They must be muddle-headed. It's the only explanation I can come up with. Probably watch too much CNN & MSNBC.

Bruce Hayden म्हणाले...

I think what might be going on with these brands is a kind of rural chic. I read awhile back about the Uber rich with places by Jackson hole flying in for the weekend on their private jets, and then driving to the local bars in their beater trucks. And yes, while I don’t have the private jet, I do have a beater pickup (Black 2000 Chevy 1500 Z71), just not the private jet. What I think some of these people are saying with their choice of Carhartt, etc is that they are rich enough to have a second or so residence somewhere where that sort of dress would be appropriate. A ranch in MT is just more exclusive that a cottage in the Hamptons. You can give off the ranching/farming on the weekend vibe by wearing a bit of Carhartt over your normal office clothes.

Narayanan म्हणाले...

BTW, how are the cows? Do you need to brush the snow off them in the morning like you do with a car? Is there a special snow brush for cows? (I assume cows don't actually need people to brush the snow off them, but I'm going to imagine that they do because I want to.)
=========
cows are like lazslo ponytail girl === swish swish with tail

cow on tread mill --- hmmmm???!!

Left Bank of the Charles म्हणाले...

My grandfather stood by his Key bib overalls. They were lighter weight than Levi’s, which was good for the summer months, and he wore long underwear under them in the winter months. But most of all he liked the freedom of not having to wear a belt about the waist. When he had to go to town for farm supplies, such as a trip to the hardware store, he would come into the house and change - into a clean pair of bib overalls.

I have a pair of Red Wing work boots that I bought for a reasonable price in the 1990s, not steel toe, as that tires you out walking about the pastures. I would buy another pair, but most of their models feature those oversized soles that are not good for walking through grass. They are a little pricey to be stepping in cow manure. I do have a nice 10-year-old pair of ecco boots that I wear for shoveling New England snow, and Vespa ridding,

My favorite jacket for outdoor work is a 20-plus-year-old LL Bean flannel lined denim shirt jacket with snaps. They don’t make it anymore. I had a second newer one that I lost on the streets of Cambridge. I did find a Dakota Grizzly waxed-cotton shirt jacket with snaps that is becoming my new favorite. Snaps are important so you can do and undo them without taking off your gloves.

Carhartt jackets strike me as too stiff to move around in, but maybe that stiffness wears off in time. I do have two 15–year-old Carhartt work shirts. It took 5 years of washings to break them in. I had a bright green Pioneer seed corn jacket that I really liked. That got occasional notice from Cantabrigians who thought the Pioneer logo was a French designer label they didn’t know.

One Eye म्हणाले...

My Carhartt jacket from Farm and Fleet was one of the best investments I ever made. I'm not blue collar and I'm not trendy. I like being warm in Wisconsin winters. Farm and Fleet also has a huge selection of nuts.

Critter म्हणाले...

In a world where young people view everything through a computer screen and increasingly virtual reality, why not pretend your not a soy boy by wearing rugged clothes? We’re in the post-modern world in Eastern cities where such clothing choices are part of your own fantasy about who you are, your own meta-reality. These are the woke crowd who can be convinced of so many nonsensical ideas as the basis for faux outrage. I loved the faux concern about cultural appropriation. What a mixed up, confused group of people.

Jaq म्हणाले...

Here is an interesting substack by Mickey Kaus about the economic issues and choices facing the US working class and the other classes too.

https://kaus.substack.com/p/two-paths-for-meritocracy

"People keep misspelling 'cultural appreciation' as 'cultural appropriation.'"

If I did it, it's the new aggressive spellcheck, or as I call it, the auto-malapropism feature.

reader म्हणाले...

This reminds me of my youth, I guess everything old is new again…

Like blue jeans, painter's pants were discovered as a fashion item by those who never wore them for work. Originally designed to be worn by working painters, painter's pants have been sold by makers of work clothes such as Dickies, since at least the 1920s. Made of white canvas with heavily stitched seams, painter's pants are distinguished by their many pockets, some roomy enough to hold brushes and rags, others small enough to keep a putty knife or screwdriver close at hand. Painter's pants also have a hammer loop, a fabric strap sized to hold the handle of a hammer, on the right-hand leg seam. Many young women, energized by the Women's and Gay Liberation movements of the early 1970s, wore painter's pants as a political statement, often with work boots, because they were the clothes of skilled trades-people and had been formerly reserved for men.

https://www.encyclopedia.com/fashion/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/painters-pants

Mark म्हणाले...

the company decided to enforce President Biden’s vaccine mandate despite a Supreme Court ruling that it was unconstitutional

This is the sloppy "reporting" one expects from NYT. The Court did not say anything about the constitutionality of the OSHA mandate. What the Court said is that Congress never gave OSHA the authority.

reader म्हणाले...

My son is starting his first post college job and the email from HR stated in all caps, bolded, and red that steel toe metatarsal guard work boots are required. Thankfully, there was a lead time prior to his start date because they were difficult to get. Local stores are out of stock for his size. Luckily, he found them online. He had an choice between two boots from all the online stores he checked - Sears, Walmart, Zappos, Boot Barn, Amazon, etc.

Old and slow म्हणाले...

In Santa Fe the truly wealthy drive Subarus.

reader म्हणाले...
ही टिप्पणी लेखकाना हलविली आहे.
NorthOfTheOneOhOne म्हणाले...

Bruce Hayden said...

I think what might be going on with these brands is a kind of rural chic. I read awhile back about the Uber rich with places by Jackson hole flying in for the weekend on their private jets, and then driving to the local bars in their beater trucks.

Don't you ever go to Scottsdale when you're wintering in AZ? You can always tell the locals from the tourist because the locals dress like total slobs even though they live in Gainey or McCormick Ranch.

Curious George म्हणाले...

Carhartt is big in the Hip-Pop world. You see lots of rappers wearing it.

Aggie म्हणाले...

It's called the monetization of brand - cashing in on the name's heritage. Levis did it a couple of decades past.

I stopped buying Carhartt some time ago when they started making changes to their clothing lines that were in pursuit of fashion rather than aligned to purpose. Their jeans became low-riding, ass-crack-viewing enablers - if you're a working stiff or farmer with the normal large frame. Too tight to crouch comfortably, and not as well made as in the past. Working stiffs spend a lot of time bending over or crouched down, putting their muscle behind their effort. You need to be able to move.

I corresponded with Carhartt a number of times as they retired the working-man cuts and rolled out the metrosexual-pretender versions. But their responses were pretty clear about their renewed corporate vision: Proletariat clothing for the Bourgeoisie!

So - As I wear out my old Carhartts, now I buy Key jeans, still traditional logger attire. Already has suspender buttons, stiff as cardboard and slightly grey when you get them - you have to wash them a few times to get them to go deep indigo blue and loosen up. The good old days.

PM म्हणाले...

I like Carhartt, but I found their jeans kinda heavy so I buy Wrangler.
My 'ranch' coat is a Patagonia - probably 30 years old. Indestructible.
Today, I'm wearing a Carhartt ball cap, good hat. I tore off the logo the day I bought it.

Bruce Hayden म्हणाले...

“I love Murdock's - always one of my favorite things about going to Wyoming. You can get their stuff online, but it's not the same as shopping.“

Good and bad experience with Murdock’s. Bought a couple guns at the one in Missoula, but couldn’t buy a G17 from the one in Silverthorne, CO, because of the 15 round magazine limit in CO. They would sell G19s, with their 15 round magazines, as well as almost every other Glock, just not the otherwise very popular G17. Down in Golden, I found someone who would sell me a new G17, with the magazines disassembled. I prefer shooting my G17 much more than my G19, but carry the G19 more, because it hides better (same 9 mm caliber, smaller, lighter frame, makes it less enjoyable to shoot).

In a similar vein, I love North 40. Bigger than Murdoch’s, with all the farm/ranch stuff you could dream of (including Carhartt). Hit the one north of Sandpoint (in Ponderay) as often as I can, at least a couple times a year. Right across the street from our 2nd closest Walmart, and next door to our closest Home Depot. Used to stay in the motel next door a lot -except that they don’t take cats.

reader म्हणाले...

Forgot to mention in reference to my sons’ search for work boots - the cheapest of the boots he was able to find was over $150.00.
All the less expensive options were out of stock. He will get some money back from his company, but he will have to eat the excess cost.

Joe Smith म्हणाले...

Not sure why, but outdoor brands like Timberland are big with the urban crowd.

My dad used to wear Ben Davis in his hammer swinging days.

Or whatever else was tough and cheap...

The Cracker Emcee Refulgent म्हणाले...

I can relate. I discovered the black Ben Davis work pants by accident and embraced them as an alternative to denim. Imagine my surprise when they became Urban fashion years later.

Bruce Hayden म्हणाले...

@Nof101.

Live right off of 64th St, which puts us just 2 miles to Snottsdale Rd, which is the city line up here (just south of the 101). The city line jogs weirdly, putting us also north of Snottsdale, south of my (Hayden) Viaduct (part of the AZ project diverting water from the CO River, so that Tucson, and, yes, Phoenix, can have golf courses). Going for a walk shortly with the dog, in a large open space between us and the Hayden-Rhodes Viaduct, and a week or so ago could see the choppers and planes flying over the PHX Open (which is actually in Snottsdale).

So, yes, I get into Snottsdale most days. And, I guess I look like one of the local slobs, though we are a bit north of Gainey or McCormick Ranch. Vest, to cover the G19, jeans, ball cap, etc. They though have to come up here to buy their fancy cars (Penske N Snottsdale autoplex between Mayo and Princess on Scottsdale - but actually in PHX, with us). Oh, and our local Whole Foods. Overpriced, and you can’t get my partner’s ReadiWhip, or equivalent (they carry their Lite version - which has replaced fat with CANE (their emphasis) sugar).

I discovered over 20 years ago, when I first moved to PHX, that there was a stiff penalty for living in Snottsdale itself. Even back then house prices were 20% higher than living in PHX itself. We are close enough for the bennies of living there, in terms of shopping and dining, just aren’t really paying the zip code premium for living in that city.

Earnest Prole म्हणाले...

Reminds me of the time a few years back when Andrew Sullivan attempted to out Texas Governor Rick Perry for wearing a simple Carhartt jacket — in Sullivan’s experience the only people who wore them were urban gays, and someone had to patiently explain to him the concept of a rural working class. I forget whether this was before or after his stint as Sarah Palin’s gynecologist.

John henry म्हणाले...

Back in the 80s someone,either Calvin Trilling, John McPhee or pj orourke (I think) wrote an essay about this.

Sounds like same thing, different brand.

He winds up visiting the bean store in Maine. Meets a bunch of Beane enthusiasts none of whom use Beane for any reason other than style.

The essay ends with him tailgating with a group in the parking lot.

One guy pulls out a flask, pronounces it "the good stuff" and passes it around. The author expecting some kind d of good whiskey finds tha it is sherry.

John LGBTQBNY Henry

retail lawyer म्हणाले...

Carhartt will be cool when the looters go fo it. Until then its for workers and some white hipsters.

Jim at म्हणाले...

There are several other brands that provide workwear - at a fraction of the cost - and don't force their employees to inject things into their bodies against their will.

Never owned a Carhartt before. They ensured I never will.

Bob Boyd म्हणाले...

Dickies makes good workwear too. They used to carry it at Murdochs, but they stopped last year. Don't know why.

Oh Yea म्हणाले...

Blogger iowan2 said...
But today I have moved past Carhartt. I'm lucky to have a Duluth Trading in my shopping area...
2/21/22, 5:56 AM

Unfortunately, I's afraid Duluth is slowly going the way of the others as they open more stores in urban areas. I've noticed they are frequently updating designs for style and not functionality. I am noticing a lot of merchandise is trending to slim fit and lighter material for "confort"

Richard Dillman म्हणाले...

Authentic Carhartt clothing is sold in Fleet Farm stores here in Mn. Many people wear them for real physical work, not for faux status.
The local Fleet Farm Store advertises itself as “the man’s mall; where if they don’t have it, you don’t need it.” Never seen an upscale
Carhartt store. Rugged Carhartt clothing is practical for outdoor work in this climate. For winter status signaling, North Face is the popular brand here. But up north in lake country, Woolrich is popular for looking rustic on weekends.

We used to make an annual trip to the LL. Bean flagship store in Freeport, Maine to stock up on their clothes. Their pants, shirts, fleeces, and ultralight parkas are both comfortable and durable. Now we order by phone, and everything seems to arrive within
a week. If you are ever in Maine, the L.L. Bean store is worth visiting just for fun. Moreover, we use the L.L. Bean credit card for most
expenses and then use our reward credits to get major discounts on purchases plus free shipping.

KellyM म्हणाले...

@tim in Vermont: it's called Woodchuck. It can be a subtle dialect to get. Even growing up in the thick of it, I never quite mastered it.

I didn't know anyone who wore Carhartt in VT then, it was either LL Bean or for serious outdoor wear, Johnson Woolen Mill. My dad wore their wool trousers and jackets for deer season. My mom used to buy their wool scraps and work them into braided rugs. Good quality wool.