"In a cobblestone plaza, under an Ottoman clock tower, men lounge in the sun with the paraphernalia of cafe culture..."

"... croissants, cellphones, cigarettes and paper cups of nus-nus, a silky coffee drink with a dash of milk and cream. In the best shopping areas, near the old Italian buildings, there are gyms and pizza parlors and gleaming outlets for European fashion brands. Not many war zones can boast Benetton or Marks & Spencer or, as Tripoli does, a well-stocked Boss outlet.... 'It’s become like America, a land of opportunity — for kidnappers,' said Mohanned el Mahjoub, a chatty 30-year-old militia commander, as we sped through Tripoli one night in his hulking four-wheel-drive Jeep."

From "Tripoli, a Tense and Listless City With Gunmen and a Well-Stocked Hugo Boss Outlet," by Declan Walsh in the NYT. In case you've been wondering, what is it like, these days, living in Libya.