"Only we are left."

In Muzaffarabad:

Malik Naseem emerged from the ruins of his house with steaming bowls of "sevian" - a sweet delicacy.

"We used to celebrate Eid with our family and friends," he said, offering me a bowl. "But the earthquake took those familiar faces away and brought you media people here instead.

"So we celebrate with you. You are our family this year."

Beneath this instinctive warmth came a reminder of the raw grief of Muzaffarabad. Malik Naseem asked me if I had enjoyed my time in his city. I said I had met many good people.

"No," he replied, crouching and cradling his head in his hands, "the good people were all killed in the earthquake. Only we are left."

There are still victims who have receive no aid. Donations have been insufficient.