Wrote Mimi Sheraton, quoted in "Mimi Sheraton, Innovative Food Critic at The New York Times, Dies at 97/She was the first to wear a disguise in order to get a normal diner’s experience for her Times reviews and worked for many publications in a six-decade career" (NYT).
What sort of disguise did she wear? You might wonder if the different treatment she received had to do with her method of disguise. We're told she used wigs and colored glasses. Were the restaurants discriminating against the ordinary person or was it anti-wigism?
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१६ टिप्पण्या:
CritAnon.
Wigs, hood[ies], no shirts no service, selective service under DIEversity, perhaps, Pro-Choice ethics, maybe, a liberal jurisdiction, probably. A different cast of people... persons.
There was a Seinfeld episode that offered a humorous analysis of Critical Diner Theory (CDT).
I had a dinner date many years ago (1990's) I wanted impress so I took her to the highest of the high-end restaurants in Pittsburgh. It was overlooking the city of Pittsburgh from Mt. Washington. An absolutely gorgeous view, if you were seated near the windows. As a young couple we were seated between the restroom doors and the swinging doors from the kitchen, far away from the "view". It was clear were not on there preferred customer list. We had a better view from the car. Never went back.
Nonagenarians often wear wigs but hiding their age is impossible. Worse, it is not uncommon for our sense of taste to change, or diminish, with time. This is due to many factors. As we age, the number of taste buds that we have decreases. Sense of smell also goes south, so perception of food tastes becomes impaired because taste buds have not been properly stimulated.
So why did she attempt to hide her identity when she should have just retired?
Sheraton started writing for the Times the year before I moved to NYC. Read her religiously back in the day.
Andre the Giant used to wear a wig and sunglasses when he went out to eat.
He was actually fairly shy...
This reminds me the old Steve Martin movie The Lonely Guy from 1984. In one scene Martin's character goes to a restaurant to eat by himself and is treated horribly by the waiters. That is until he pulls out a reporters notebook and starts making some notes, then the entire staff treats him like a king.
The quality and style of your clothes, and your overall presentation also impacts your treatment, at restaurants and elsewhere.
I have used the lobby bathrooms at many of NYC's finest hotels because I walked in confidently, wearing nice suits and shoes. No "may I help you?" faux concern reserved for those who don't appear to belong.
"Were the restaurants discriminating against the ordinary person or was it anti-wigism?"
The idea is that when the staff at a restaurant recognizes a critic, he receives especially good treatment. I am not sure that amounts to "discriminating against the ordinary person".
I am sure she didn't disguise herself as a trans-man. If she did they would be falling over themselves to provide her with the best dining experience possible.
HBO has a movie, "The Menu" that skewers various aspects of high-end food culture. One of the characters is a very pretentious and not very self-aware food critic.
Oh I should add, I wasn't trying to suggest that this person was pretentious or not self-aware. Her actions suggest the opposite.
Hair brained scheme?
NO SOUP FOR YOU!!!
Here's a suggestion for a disguise for the next enquiring NYT food critic - wear a MAGA hat. Would love to see that review. Or, possibly, obituary.
I recommend Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise by Ruth Reichl. Amazon describes it as a riotous account of the many disguises she uses to dine anonymously. Not at all a frivolous book.
'I have used the lobby bathrooms at many of NYC's finest hotels because I walked in confidently, wearing nice suits and shoes. No "may I help you?" faux concern reserved for those who don't appear to belong.'
I do the same thing.
Even dressed like a tourist, just walk in like you own the place.
Pro tip: Many hotel/business restrooms in San Francisco (and other big cities) have push-button locks on the restrooms to keep out the bums. If you ever patronize a place like that and you are given the code, write it down in Notes on your phone. The codes are rarely changed and can come in handy later on...
Black Lamb and Grey Falcon, Rebecca West's pre-WwII travelogue & anti-fascist tome about the Balkans, has several dining reviews in which the tourist/local difference in service is discussed. The description of coffee "mit ohne" is delightful.
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